Exciting Austrian Newcomer - 2013 Stagård Rieslings: Steiner Hund, Kögl & Schreck

Posted by Joe Salamone

Stagård's are some of the most exciting Austrian wines we've tasted.

2013 is the first vintage that we've tasted Stagård's wines and they are really, really impressive.

These are eye-opening Austrian Rieslings. While being crystal clear and painstakingly precise, they have textural depth and a calm, haunting complexity. There's a serenity to the wines that makes them stand out. For some reference, think of Nikolaihof with more snap, brightness and narrower framework.

Urban Stagård returned to his family's domaine in 2006 with his wife Dominique. His family had impressive sites, but they immediately set out to augment their vineyards with rentals of top sites in Krems.

The Stagårds are fascinated with Riesling and German ones in particular. They definitely stand out from what we've come to expect from Austrian winemakers. One of the most obvious things is that the Stagårds are comfortable with leaving some residual sugar. The 2013s have around 5-6 grams of r.s which is fairly high for Austria. This helps keep the wines low in alcohol. They rarely creep above 13 percent.

Stagård has an amazing ability to highlight texture and presence along with precision and tension, in a way that doesn't feel contrived. The interplay between the two elements is thrilling.

Kögl produces Stagård's most structured Riesling. It's a terraced site of mica-schist with 60 year old vines. There's a beautiful stony cut and high toned floral notes.

Already made famous by Nikolaihof, Steiner Hund assumes a different presentation in the hands of Stagård. The site's power and darker, more savory elements are on display, but there's a nimbleness and edgy minerality that adds lots of zest.

Finally, there's Schreck, a blue slate site and the steepest vineyard in Krems. Here is where Stagård's ability to render Rieslings that are mineral-driven and creamy, while remaining tensile, is most obvious. There are enveloping layers of spice, stone fruits and wet rocks along with an ultra-clear stone and saline core.

This is a gorgeous cast of wines. There's no doubt that the balance, clarity and overall outrageous quality of the 2013 vintage makes itself felt. Before wrapping this up, I have to warn you that these are available in tiny quantities. Please give us your ideal order and we'll try our best.

To order, email offers@crushwineco.com or call the store at (212) 980-9463.

Joe Salamone

Wine Buyer
Crush Wine & Spirits
2013 Stagård Rieslings