Wine of the Year... Revisited
2004 Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Vaudésir
"...this is a real stunner of a wine." -Burghound
When the 2004 Chablis were first released, they were quickly compared with the unflinching 2002s - both vintages share a similar rigor of form, an uncompromising structure, a tactile and polished display of minerality.
For purists, these are among the most exciting Chablis out there. For this reason, it was little wonder that Bobby chose this bottling, the 2004 Fèvre Grand Cru Vaudésir, as his "Wine of the Year" in 2008.
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With an additional two years of development - and an additional two years of hindsight - the 2004 vintage and Fèvre's grand collection have only grown in stature. Didier Séguier's work at the estate has unquestionably brought Fèvre into the top echelon of Chablis, right there with Dauvissat and Raveneau.
The styles, however, are different: Fèvre makes higher-toned Chablis, incredibly bright, shimmering wines that speak as much to the northern region of Champagne as they do to their southern counterparts in the Côte d'Or.
We've had the pleasure of revisiting this bottle a number of times over the past few months and while the wine still has the crystalline purity and fresh, winter-morning vibrancy, it has found a more calm presence, it has gained a more lithe and elegant presentation.
The wine's saline, oyster-shell minerality has also evolved into something more mysterious, something more atmospheric than earth-bound. This is the great mystery of wine, the inevitable voice of terroir - less chalk and gunflint the wine now smells of Chablis itself, early morning, dew, earth, delicate citrus and flowers.
THIS IS WHY WE CELLAR WINE - this is the development that only time can bring...
Suffice it to say when we had the chance to buy another, albeit small, parcel, we took the opportunity - especially when the pricing was within reach of the deal we offered two years ago. With the 2008 Fèvre Vaudesir fairly coming to market at $60 to $80, the pricing today is put into its righteous context.
Yes, this is an extraordinary deal. It is also a small parcel and so this goes out only to those of you who have supported our Chablis program. First come, first served and all orders are subject to confirmation.
The Vaudésir Grand Cru vineyard is known for its voluptuousness matched with definition and liveliness, a result of steep slopes rich in clay with perfect southern exposure. The result here is one of the more exuberant Fèvre Grand Crus - open, generous, luscious Chablis, yet obviously still with a substantial mineral core.
While this wine has a good 5+ years in this beautiful drinking zone (at least), this is very likely the last stop for this sort of pricing.
To place your order, please email us at offers@crushwineco.com or call the store at (212) 980-9463.
Ian McFadden
Director, Fine and Rare Wine
Crush Wine & Spirits
Burghound: "This is aromatically quite a bit riper with peach, pear and subtle exotic notes yet this remains extremely fresh while introducing spicy, rich and full flavors that display a bit of pain grillé and vanilla on the big, powerful and punchy finish that goes on and on seemingly without end. This possesses lots of personality and while the Valmur, for all its purity and grace makes for an understated effort, the Vaudésir is far more expressive, indeed showier though by no means vulgar or common. A completely different expression from the Les Clos and Valmur and in short, this is a real stunner of a wine."
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