Fireworks on the Razor's Edge
2008 Alzinger Riesling Loibenberg
The Only Parcel in the U.S.
In the few years since release, the 08 Alzingers have come into ultra-fine form.
This is a cut vintage that produced tensile, snappy wines that showcased, out of the gates, a sort of manic, puppy-like energy.
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In the last few years, however, the wines have found their balance - the tones are still cool and blue, their edges still as fine and polished as anything, yet the midpalates have opened up and the acidities are now integrated and well, especially in Alzinger's case... spectacular.
Leo Alzinger and his son Leo Alzinger are artists with acidity. I've written this before, but Alzinger makes wines that are Saar-like in their clarity, in the etched, precise acidity.
Few wines (outside of the Saar), match Alzinger's combination of intensity with needle-fine detail, with extreme focus.
The 2008 Loibenberg presents fireworks on this fine razor's edge. The Loibenberg is perhaps the most exotic, most lavish and generous site in the Wachau - the wines flaunt heady perfumes. It is a "Grand Cru" site if ever there was one, farmed by many of the greats of the Wachau (FX Pichler, Knoll, etc).
The 2008 Loibenberg presents tension in a sort of exotic way - both the rigors of the 2008 vintage and the general Alzinger style, matched to the volume and expressiveness of the Loibenberg.
Beethoven's 9th Symphony played by a chamber orchestra? Something like that.
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Alzinger, perhaps more than any other big name in the Wachau, remains something of a cult producer:
Theise has a great anecdote that rings so true. He writes:
"I happened to be sitting next to a buyer for one of Austria's major wine retailers one evening over dinner. We was schmoozin'. I asked him: 'Apart from a professional appraisal, which Wachau wines do you personally most enjoy?' He thought for an instant and answered: 'Alzinger and Prager.'"
Indeed, talk to some Austrian wine fanatics. I'd be surprised if Alzinger isn't way, way up there in the "most enjoyable" category.
What they are NOT is in the "easily available" category. This is the only parcel of 2008 Loibenberg left in the U.S. - the tiny Alzinger estate is only about 8 hectares in size. In good years, they make only around 5,000 cases.
Give us your maximum order and we'll allocate accordingly.
To order, email us at offers@crushwineco.com or call the store at (212) 980-9463.
Stephen Bitterolf
Wine Director
Crush Wine & Spirits