FXP: Aftershocks in Acidity...
2008 FX Pichler Riesling Kellerberg
Following Up on the Loibenberg Sell-Out
At the Lowest Price in the Nation
Well - this is the last bullet we have in our FXP gun.
Saturday's 2007 Loibenberg email sold out, many times over.
That said, we do have one final back-vintage FXP "big gun" in our arsenal, and it's a good one (especially at $15 below the lowest price in the nation).
If the Loibenberg "detonates" on the palate, the Kellerberg is the scalpel - quieter, sleeker, finer, no less multi-faceted yet the Kellerberg speaks in a determined whisper, with a presentation of mineral that is among the greatest that Riesling ever delivers. (Yes, compare to Keller's Absterde or Morstein, Trimbach's Clos Ste. Hune...)
2008, if not as deep and perfectly balanced as 2007, is a thrilling vintage for purists with a driving, icy-cold and polished acidity, a sleek backbone of mineral and lemon-zest that pulls the citrus and stone fruit into a lean and piercing wine of really pretty stupefying length.
Lucas Pichler |
This wine has drive and a just unbelievably slick structure - as if the entire wine were whittled down to its essentials.
Indeed, the Kellerberg is, in my opinion, perhaps the greatest site in Austria. The reason I think this is simple enough: Time and time again, when I come to old Kellerbergs (whether FX Pichler or top Knoll vintages) the wines are simply so complete - they are everything. They are luxurious and long and detailed and so, so, so finessed.
I loved this wine when it was released and with a few years of bottle age it has become a bit more nuanced, even more lithe and elegant.
This is awesome juice, that's all there is to it.
Which brings us, once again, to one of the biggest issues with Austrian wine - they are, for the most part, released... and then drunk up! It's just not easy to find back-vintage bottlings.
This is it for us - obviously we'll keep looking but a prime parcel of Kellerberg at pricing like this is a rarity indeed. Don't miss.
To order, please reply to this email or call the store at (212) 980-9463.
Stephen Bitterolf
Wine Director
Crush Wine & Spirits