FX Pichler: This Wine Virtually Detonates (Revisiting 2007)

Posted by CrushWine

Austrian Intensity/Exuberance
2007 FX Pichler Loibner Berg
Riesling Smaragd
Among the Most Coveted Austrian Bottles,
at the Lowest Price in the Nation

"...this wine, virtually detonates..." -David Schildknecht

David Schildknecht is one of the most rigorous, scholarly minds currently in the wine business, which makes it all the more fun to read his prose when he loses his mind over a wine. (My favorite-ever Schildknecht line, describing Nikolaihof's 2004 Steiner Hund, "a torrential force of nature and leaves the tongue and gums quivering.")

In any event, his words, even when they begin to soar, always remain on target: Indeed, Pichler's Loibenberg is an explosive, kaleidoscopic, multi-dimensional Riesling.

Lucas Pichler

The Loibenberg is perhaps the most exotic vineyard in the Wachau; the wines it produces flaunt lime-zest notes that truly do detonate. When nature works with this vineyard as it so did in 2007, the results are simply electrifying.

It's time to revisit 2007, the superb vintage that came out in the shadow of the Baroque 2006s and yet has, every year since, climbed the scales. Now, with the decade neatly closed, the 2007 vintage has to rank along with 2001 as the absolute best.

Saturation with structure; density with structure.

Pichler's 07 collection is simply outrageous and coming back to the Loibenberg three-years post-release (at the release price and $15 below any other U.S. price) is a tour-de-force in what Pichler can do, in what Riesling can be.

The style here is sexy, glossy, saturating - lime skins polished into something nearing porcelain, a soaring floral bouquet and mineral, absolutely bonkers minerality. FX Pichler's wines, the Loibenberg especially, are statuesque; they are curvaceous and at all times pristine and clear. In this way, FX Pichler is the Keller of Austria; truly one of the masters of dry Riesling.

Lucas Pichler himself compares his 07s to his 97s - those of you who've had the FXP 97s will understand the weight of this comparison. Want to buy yourself a 97 to compare? None in the U.S. - a few bottles in Austria at $140.

Which brings us to one of the biggest issues with Austrian wine - they are, for the most part, released... and then drunk up! It's not easy to find back-vintage bottlings of any Austrian Rieslings, let alone the best.

When you do, they are PRICEY. This parcel breaks the rules, and that happens... just not often.

We strongly encourage all interested to go as deep as they can. Not likely to come around again. To order, please reply to this email or call the store at (212) 980-9463.

Stephen Bitterolf
Wine Director
Crush Wine & Spirits

2007 FX Pichler Loibner Berg Riesling Smaragd