German Rarity: 2012 Muller Scharzhofberger Kabinett Alte Reben #4 Auction

Posted by Joe Salamone

German Rarity:
The Singular Magic of Müller
2012 Egon Müller Scharzhofberger
Kabinett Alte Reben #4 Auction

I can't tell you how much energy we've devoted to finding Egon Müller's 2012s. They're stunning and in short supply.

When a small parcel of Müller's Kabinett Auction became available, we jumped all over it.

Müller's wines are some of the greatest Rieslings on the planet. It's that simple.

Every time we taste Müller's wines, we're reminded of this. A couple months ago at Rielsingfeier, Müller was a highlight of an embarassingly great group of wines. Müller's wines are rare and quickly disappear from the market. You can forget about just how awesome these wines are simply because they are so scarce. When you're reminded, as we were by a '71 Kabinett recently, the experience can be shocking.

Today, we present one of Müller's great rarities, the 2012 Kabinett Alte Reben #4 Auction. There are only two other places in the world that you'll find this bottle.

Our experience with Müller's Auction bottlings has convinced us that they exist on an even higher plane. Yes, they're rare, and expensive. With that said, these are some of the greatest wines in the world. For the few who know them well, they are legendary.

Müller's Kabinetts are studies in fineness, raciness and complexity. Their beauty leaves you speechless. And Müller's Auction Kabinett takes all of this and kicks it up to an unheard of level. They combine intensity and weightlessness in a way that's completely unique. It's hard for us to think of any other wine that pulls this off. It's a heartbreaking, utterly compelling combination.

Auction bottles are not to be confused with their lesser siblings - these are special barrels, selected by the estate to be auctioned off at the annual VDP auction in Trier.

Even in that rarefied context, Egon Müller has a long history of bringing absolutely killer selections to the auction. The easiest way to think of it is to picture the best attributes of the normal bottlings consolidated, amplified and given an indescribable dose of magic.

The Scharzhofberg vineyard, recognized since 1000 A.D. as a superior site for growing grapes, produces wines of incredible concentration and intensity with a structure built for aging. Even in this context, in Müller's hands, this inherently first-class site reaches a shockingly elevated level. When I think about holy marriages between grower and site in Germany, Müller and his Scharzhofberg is the first example that comes to mind.

The stories abound of Müller's Kabinett drinking really well at 30+ years. The 2012 collection here is without a doubt one of best of the past decade. The 2012 Kabinett Auction promises to be an epic example of the singular magic Kabinett.

To order, reply to or call the store at (212) 980-9463.

Joe Salamone
Wine Buyer
Crush Wine & Spirits