In The Shadow of Grand Cru: 2011 Colin-Morey St. Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly Nicholas et Mathis

Posted by Ian McFadden

The Sweet Spot
- In The Shadow of Grand Cru
2011 Colin-Morey Saint-Aubin
1er Cru En Remilly Cuvée Nicholas et Mathis

It's impossible not to be in awe of Pierre-Yves Colin.

In no time at all, Pierre-Yves Colin has taken his place among the revered likes of Coche-Dury and Jean-Marc Roulot.

When you taste the wines, you immediately get why this is. He is easily one of the most exciting young winemakers in Burgundy.

Nicholas et Mathis is a special cuvée sourced from the very best part of Remilly, a plot perfectly positioned on the mid-slope of the vineyard, very near the Grand Cru site of Chevalier-Montrachet, which produces some of the most rare and expensive white wine in the world.

En Remilly is the best site of St. Aubin. Seasoned Burgundy buyers have long sought out En Remilly for the ridiculous quality-price-ratio it delivers. And this helps to explain why Colin-Morey's basic En Remilly disappears from the market so quickly.

Nicholas et Mathis is much rarer than Colin-Morey's basic En Remilly. Said more directly, we're dealing with a painfully rare, sweet spot of En Remilly. It's almost impossible to find it outside of some of the best restaurants in the US, including The French Laundry, Daniel, Per Se and RN74. As you might imagine, our parcel is modest and we're only sending this to a select group of Burgundy fanatics.

Colin-Morey's 2011s are just stunning. Pierre-Yves himself said that the 2011 is notable for its balance. It's a sort of elusive descriptor, but within that delicate equilibrium lies the vintage's clear fruit, harnessed with intense minerality, richness, and vigor that are all, yes, perfectly balanced.

The En Remilly "Nicholas et Mathis" boasts the finely calibrated harmony that Colin-Morey achieved this vintage. There is a mineral precision to his wines, an agility, a crystalline expression of citrus, flower, stone fruits and mineral with explosive complexity and rigorous detail. It's really just thrilling.

Needless to say, there is very little of this wine. Colin-Morey goes quickly, and as for the special bottling—well, let's just say that when it sells out here, you'll be hard-pressed to find it anywhere else.

To order, reply to or call the store at (212) 980-9463.

Ian McFadden
Director, Fine and Rare Wine
Crush Wine & Spirits