In a way, this Grand Cru dry Riesling from Julian Haart represents the other side of the famous Keller Schubertslay deal.
A short history is probably in order.
The Schubertslay, a steep, old-vine vineyard in the middle of the Goldtröpfchen, was handed over by Julian to his friend Klaus Peter Keller beginning with vintage 2018.
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In return, Keller helped Julian and Nadine Haart access two very special, but very small parcels in two of the most exciting vineyards in the Rheinhessen: The Frauenberg and the Zellertal am Schwarzen Herrgott.
While the Frauenberg has been represented in the Keller oeuvre for some time, the estate has expanded more into the cold side valley just south and west, known as the Zellertal. It is here that Keller has planted a number of high-density sites with soils rich in marl and limestone and a red-tinged clay.
It is in these two sites where Julian and Nadine Haart bring their singular touch to the "Rote Erden," a selection of top barrels from both vineyards.
This is a Grand Cru dry Riesling in every way, other than price. At only $45.95 in the four-pack purchase, this is unquestionably one of the greatest deals of the vintage. More than that - for you buyers who have had trouble finding any top Julian Haart bottlings - this is a wine that is, for the moment, available.
While 2023 was not an easy vintage, greatness was possible and Julian did not miss the opportunity. This is unquestionably one of Julian's greatest collections, with the rigor of the mind-bending 2021ers yet some of the depth of the 2020ers and even 2018ers (which at this estate are superb).
The "Rote Erden" is vivid and soaring, aromatic and glycerin-rich with cooling citrus, herbs, and a polished, porcelain-like minerality. The kinetic energy of this wine just reverberates. With nearly nine grams of acid, this is an incisive wine with tremendous length.
It is a tour-de-force dry Riesling from a vintage that you should not miss. As this wine gets to be more well-known, it will go the way of all the other top Julian Haart bottlings. Please give us your ideal order, and we'll try our best.
To order, email offers@crushwineco.com or call the store at (212) 980-9463.
Joe Salamone
Wine Buyer
Crush Wine & Spirits
Special 4-pack pricing for a limited time. Use Code: RoteErden23