It's unlikely that we'll ever be able to offer a list of Puffeney's wines like this again.
In 2014, Puffeney announced that he would be retiring the following year. The estate was sold to Guillaume d'Angerville's Jura project, Domaine Pelican. Since 2014, Puffeney continued to make tiny quantities of wine for "friends and family" for a few years.
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Puffeney is one of the Jura's old guard. His work was so well-respected within the region that he's nicknamed the Pope of Arbois. The wines have a rugged honesty that we love.
For many Americans, Puffeney was the initial face of the Jura. When I tasted my first Jura wine over twenty years ago, it was one of Puffeney's.
At this point, Puffeney's wines rarely see the light of day. We feel very fortunate to be able to offer this wide range of Puffeney's wines.
The list includes Puffeney's sous voile (oxidative) whites along with what may be Jura's most ageable Poulsard and Pinot Noir.
Les Bérangères is located in Montigny-lès-Arsures, where the graviers gras (fat gravel) soils are perfectly suited to Trousseau. The village is even referred to as “the capital of Trousseau." Les Bérangères is a very well-situated south, southwest-facing vineyard. Puffeney's Les Bérangères is considered by many the top example.
Finally, there's Puffeney's Vin Jaune. In terms of style, if you're familiar with the vin jaunes of Macle in Château-Chalon or Montbourgeau in l'Étoile, with their fine, mineral-infused, and elegant structure, Puffeney's area of Arbois produces richer, more powerful wines. They are oily in texture, robustly earthy, and punctuated by spice. What they sacrifice in terms of elegance, they compensate for with character and fascination.
For the decades to come, these will serve as monuments to Puffeney's traditionalist approach. Puffeney's soulful and unforced style is something that seems difficult to recreate. Opportunities to offer wines from this old wiseman have become rare. This shouldn't be missed.
To order, email offers@crushwineco.com or call the store at (212) 980-9463.
Joe Salamone
Wine Buyer
Crush Wine & Spirits