Les Clos, Distilled
2012 Duplessis Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos
For me, Duplessis is as real as Chablis gets.
These are intensely mineral and classically styled Chablis. They offer a straight up beauty that I love.
Les Clos is Duplessis' only Grand Cru holding. Among Chablis' Grand Crus, it is the king. Les Clos is as powerful and densely mineral as Chablis gets. It is Chablis at its most statuesque, dazzling and complex.
Duplessis captures Les Clos' grandeur with a discreet precision. There's the volume and gripping power that Clos is famous for, but carries it with a fascinating subtlety and balance.
The beauty of the 2012 is how it combines great poise and concentration. It's also a vintage of really impressive purity. With his usual acuity, David Schildknecht hits it on the head when he writes: "the best 2012s are focused, energetic, and not lacking in textural allure."
Duplessis' 2012 Les Clos dramatizes the brilliance, texture and overall, pristine nature of the vintage. There's an incredible amount of depth combined with zippy citrus notes and loads of seashell minerality. All of this is cast in very sharp focus.
Calling Duplessis Les Clos one of the great values (while true) sells the wine short. It's a really impressive representation of all that is special and fascinating about Chablis. The fact that it's priced accessibly only sweetens the deal.
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Neal Martin, The Wine Advocate: "The 2012 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos, the sole grand cru owned by Duplessis, has a typically reserved and minerally bouquet that will require 3 or 4 years aging to really open. The palate is where the action is: Beautifully balanced and with an innate sense of power and intensity, it just builds in the mouth to a harmonious, lightly spiced finish that has a touch of fieriness lingering on the aftertaste."