At the northern edge of the Rheinhessen, limestone vineyards slant slightly to the north.
This most curious fact guarantees that the wines of this place have a forceful impact.
Indeed, there can be no doubt that the wines of the young Carsten Saalwächter make an impression. With only a few vintages under his belt, he has become one of the most talked-about growers in Germany.
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Saalwächter’s wines are forceful, expansive, textural, powerful, and structured. The salty limestone is so prominent, the ocean breeze and the gunflint aromas so strong, that the wines feel as if they are distant cousins of Chablis or even the Jura.
These are wines that truly redefine what the Rheinhessen – what Germany – can be.
Today, we offer two stunning examples of this new Rheinhessen, Saalwaechter’s Silvaner “alte Reben” and Weisser Burgunder.
At as low as $34.95 and $46.95, these wines can be on the table next to many grand white wines twice the price.
The Silvaner “alte Reben,” or old vine, is the defining wine of the estate. This is Silvaner at its most potent, at its most structured. Saalwächter presses the grapes very hard, and so the wine is phenolic, almost chewy. While the acidity is stern, it is the phenolic construction, the herbal density of the wines, that impresses.
The Weissburgunder has similar ocean-breeze aromatics and a sea-salt and citrus mid-palate, yet it is decidedly more floral, more sheened, more finessed, and elegant. The minerality is polished.
If Chardonnay is the closest reference point, for those not terribly familiar with either Silvaner or Weisser Burgunder, think of the Silvaner as Grand Cru Chablis and the Weissburgunder as more of an elegant white Burgundy with its serpentine curves.
Yet these are singular wines, and that is the point.
For the German wine fan, these are must-buys. For the Old World white wine buyer, these bottles may very well convince you that Silvaner and Weissburgunder deserve a spot on your table and in your cellar.
To order, email offers@crushwineco.com or call the store at (212) 980-9463.
Joe Salamone
Wine Buyer
Crush Wine & Spirits
