There is a lot to unpack in this offer: A brilliant newcomer farming only one hectare. A profound contrast of terroirs, Pinot Noir as translated through dark volcanic soils and bright limestone terroir.
Yet there is more here as well...
...because Moise's wines come from parcels in Baden very close to those farmed by Wasenhaus.
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They offer us, in effect, the opportunity to compare, side-by-side, similar sites, similar terroirs, through the lens of a different grower. This is one of the fascinations of Mosel Riesling, of Burgundy. Now it can begin here.
Moise represents one of the most exciting Spätburgunder discoveries of the last few years, right up there with the legends Enderle & Moll and Wasenhaus.
Moise's wines are, without a doubt, some of the most absurd values in German Spätburgunder, to say nothing of old-world Pinot Noir in general.
Yet Moise has his own way of working. For one, he bottles earlier than most to preserve freshness and energy. And you taste it.
Moise's style is direct, linear, and lifted. The wines seem to be reduced to only what is most essential, and this gives them a focus that makes an impression, an energy that vibrates through the wines.
These Spätburgunder are shockingly clear, compact, and seamless. They are quiet wines, that dazzle.
The "Belmont" bottling comes from the same limestone mountain from which Wasenhaus sources their Möhlin bottling. As with Wasenhaus' Möhlin, this wine is dense and coating, bright and finely knit. It is so perfectly poised and balanced.
The Kaiserstuhl bottling is sourced from the Grand Cru site Eichberg. Darker-fruited and more structured, this is the grippier wine, with rustic tannins and some bite. It still has Moise's signature lift, a lightness that gives the wine an uncanny energy - yet this wine unfurls and reveals more with time in the decanter. Compare this to Wasenhaus' Vulkan bottling.
These wines represent only Jakob's third vintage. Given that this is only the beginning of the journey, the wines are nothing short of staggering.
But they are just as staggeringly limited; Moise still farms less than one hectare. So, if you are interested, do not delay.
To order, email offers@crushwineco.com or call the store at (212) 980-9463.
Joe Salamone
Wine Buyer
Crush Wine & Spirits