Lukas Hammelmann’s dry Rieslings represent the most mineral and ethereal expressions of Pfalz Riesling we’ve ever had.
On the one hand, Hammelmann’s Klostergarten feels like a perfume of earth and mineral. On the other hand, it feels like a rocket ship.
Almost weightless, the wine expands and seems to turn into vapor, until a whiplash of ripe acidity, so etched and compact, rips across the palate bringing every flavor into high definition.
It’s a thrilling experience – the form and energy of the wine – yet the clarity of the citrus and mineral, the wildly complex herbal array, a flower garden mixed with fresh green herbs, takes the wine to a truly singular level.
At as low as $52.95 per bottle in the three-pack, the Klostergarten Grand Cru dry Riesling is also a profound value.
Truth be told, Schäfer-Fröhlich and Emrich-Schönleber seem to be the only reasonable reference points for Hammelmann. Given the compact, coiled, and tense architecture, you’d be forgiven for thinking Hammelmann’s wine might also come from the cold, upper reaches of the Nahe.
Yet Hammelmann’s vineyards are in the southern reaches of the Pfalz. Rebholz is perhaps the nearest famous neighbor, though Rebholz’s sites are tucked into the blue-chip foothills of the Haardt mountains. This is one of the most famous (and pricey) stretches of viticultural land in Germany, running through the famous Mittelhaart villages of Deidesheim, Forst, and Bad Dürkheim.
Hammelmann, however, is on the outside looking in, some 20 minutes east of these famous stretches. His hometown of Zeiskam is in the rather flat and wind-swept plains of the Rhein basin. While there has been viticulture here for thousands of years, it was a more basic wine production. It was simply too cold for quality wine. Growing up, Lukas was told his hometown of Zeiskam was only good for potatoes and onions.
However, the 2022 Zeiskamer Klostergarten is a forceful testament that this era is over. For those looking for crystalline wines that shimmer with acidity, this is a must-buy.
With only four hectares, there is not much wine to go around. We encourage you to get your orders in early.
To order, email offers@crushwineco.com or call the store at (212) 980-9463.
Joe Salamone
Wine Buyer
Crush Wine & Spirits
Special 3-pack pricing for a limited time. Use Code: Klostergarten22