Meursault Master - Lowest Price: 2011 Lafon Meursault 1er Cru Porusots

Posted by Ian McFadden

Meursault Master - Lowest Price
2011 Lafon Meursault 1er Cru Porusots
"...a very major wine in the firmament of Meursault"

I had high expectations for this wine. It blew them all away.

Along with Coche-Dury and Roulot, Dominique Lafon produces Meursaults that can compete with the best whites of the Côte d’Or.

Of course, this translates to Lafon's wines being scarce. They are often doled out in terms of bottles rather than cases to top restaurants and retailers. It's always the case and for this wine in particular: There is only one other listing for this wine in the country. I'm happy to have enough of this wine to offer to a decently sized audience.

Last year, we excitedly announced that Dominique Lafon, undisputed great of the CĂ´te d'Or, had added the 1er Cru vineyard Porusots to his already impressive line-up. The purchase was, to say the least, a big deal, with John Gilman proclaiming, "this is going to be a very major wine in the firmament of Meursault!"

The 2011 vintage marks the first vintage that Lafon was able to see Porusots through from beginning to end. And it's a huge success.

Lafon used to work in a much bigger style, but recent years have seen him slim down, shaping his wines with more laser-cut minerality. And it's this honing of skills that puts him squarely among the region's best. Seeing this lean approach applied to Porusots, an inherently more hedonistic expression of Meursault, is pretty thrilling and downright delicious.

The 1er Cru Porusots is an east-facing vineyard with deep clay soils. The site produces lavish and layered wines. In Lafon's hands and in 2011, the site delivers rich fruit with piercingly clear precision, sleekness and bright energy —the package is complete.

We know this may seem expensive for a Meursault, which have an unfortunate tendency to get overlooked as mere flesh and fun. Rest assured: When done correctly—which is to say, when done like Lafon, or like Roulot, like Coche—these wines stand up with the greats.

To order, reply to or call the store at (212) 980-9463.

Ian McFadden
Director, Fine and Rare Wine
Crush Wine & Spirits

Burghound: "A slightly riper nose offers up notes of both white and yellow orchard fruit plus a distinct note of Granny Smith apples, all of which is trimmed in discreet wood toast. There is an enticing mouth feel to the medium weight plus flavors thanks to the abundant level of dry extract that coats the palate on the muscular and powerful finish. Texturally speaking, this could not be more different from the Bouchères."