Meursault Master - Lowest Price: 2012 Lafon Meursault Magnums

Posted by Ian McFadden

Meursault Master - Lowest Price
2012 Lafon Meursault Magnums

"The 2012 is a stellar village wine... This wine will drink beautifully from day one, but is so well balanced that it should cruise along for many, many years to come." -John Gilman

Lafon produced precious little juice in 2012, but the small amount of wine that he was able to make turned out beautifully. It's a difficult situation: great wines, tiny quantities.

Lafon is always in short supply - doled out in terms of bottles rather than cases to top restaurants and retailers, but in 2012 availability is simply brutal.

Along with Coche-Dury and Roulot, Lafon has long enjoyed status as a benchmark Meursault producer. Lately, though, Lafon has been killing it. He used to work in a much bigger style, but recent years have seen him slim down, shaping his wines with more laser-cut minerality. And it's this honing of skills that puts him squarely among the Côte d’Or's best.

The 2012s show just how intense this learning curve has been. This is a really breathtaking white Burgundy. That's why I stocked up on it, in magnums. There's a thundering, driving, detailed minerality that I love. With a little more age, I expect this to get wicked complex with its medley of citrus, stone fruits, minerals and subtle exotic notes. Even in its youth, the textural element and multi-dimensional presentation really wins me over.

There it is. I wish there were more, but I'm happy to offer what I can. For villages Meursault, it doesn't get much better than this, especially in magnums.

To order, reply to offers@crushwineco.com or call the store at (212) 980-9463.

Ian McFadden
Director, Fine & Rare Wine
Crush Wine & Spirits

John Gilman, View from the Cellar: "I have always liked the inherent elegance that the Lafon Meursault AC consistentlydelivers from year to year, but with the new vineyard additions to this bottling from the former Domaine Manuel holdings, the quality here has even jumped up a bit. The 2012 is a stellar village wine, wafting from the glass in a very classy blend of apple, passion fruit, a touch of iodine, orange zest, chalky minerality and a gentle topnote of fresh coconut. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, crisp and complex, with a fine core, impressive cut and grip, excellent focus and a very long, suave and succulent finish. This wine will drink beautifully from day one, but is so well balanced that it should cruise along for many, many years to come."