New Ganevat: Madelon Rouge & De Toute Beaute Rouge

Posted by Joe Salamone

New Ganevat
Ganevat Madelon VdF (2013)
& De Toute Beaute VdF (2013)

Today, I'm very happy to introduce two new cuvées from Ganevat.

As a preface, I should warn you that we'll head into unusual territory. For these newest releases, Ganevat has blended non-AOC-approved, indigenous Jura varietals with purchased grapes from Beaujolais.

I have to confess that I was somewhat skeptical. It's difficult not to find these blends of Gamay from Beaujolais with ancient Jura varietals a bizarre development. However, from what I've tasted and from all the reports that I've heard, these very much stand up to the incredibly high level of quality that we've come to expect from Ganevat.

The easiest wine to compare these new releases with is the J'en Veux. More than just being based on crazy heirloom Jura varietals, these new releases share J'en Veux's freshness and ridiculous drinkability.

The short story here is that the 2012 and 2013 vintages produced super-limited quantities at the same time that Ganevat's popularity was reaching unbelievable heights. Faced with such a disparity of demand and wine available, Ganevat bought grapes from growers who follow organic/biodynamic methods similar to his own. (One of the sources is Chateau de Grand Pre in Beaujolais, a close friend of Ganevat's and someone he admirers greatly.)

To start with the Madelon, it's a blend of 80% Gamay from Morgon and Brouilly with 20% Enfarinés, a light, high acid varietal, some of which is franc de pieds (ungrafted vines.) Then there's the De Toute Beaute. Here you have 70% Gamay from Fleurie and Moulin-à-Vent along with a dizzying array of old Jura varietals including Petit and Gros Béclan, Gueuche, Argant, Portugais Bleu Isabelle and more.

Since these wines break nearly every AOC rule imaginable, they can only be labeled Vin de France and can't technically be vintage wines. With all that said, they are both from the 2013 vintage. Both wines undergo carbonic maceration and foot stomping before being aged in old barrels.

If you've enjoyed the purity, texture, freshness and overall detail of Ganevat's reds, these are very much worth checking out. While not inexpensive, they are fairly priced and values relative to Ganevat's other reds.

As with all things Ganevat, these are extremely limited. If things go the way they have in the past, we'll be allocating these Sunday afternoon.

To order, reply to or call the store at (212) 980-9463.

Joe Salamone
Wine Buyer
Crush Wine & Spirits