Not many wine careers can have started off on a more superlative level-2013 Haart Goldtropfchen Kabinett

Posted by Joe Salamone

"Not many wine careers can have started off on a more superlative level"
2013 Haart Goldtröpfchen Kabinett

Julian Haart is still in his twenties, he works a mere 1.5ha and he's wasted no time joining the Mosel's short list.

We've been fans from the start, but 2013 marks a vintage where everything came together for him.

This is especially true at the Kabinett level.

We recently tasted through most of Julian Haart's 2013 line-up and were blown away by the Kabinetts.

Haart's style is enormously deep and tactile with a concentration that is intense. In 2013, it found its perfect complement with the vintage's electric acidity.

In the 2013 Goldtröpfchen Kabinett, the result is a gripping, almost solid slate-y minerality that's backed by agility and an ultra-fresh verve. The mid-plate is packed with stone fruits, soil tones, spice and floral top notes. The finish is incredibly long, elegant and precise. In short, it's brilliantly pure and just gorgeous.

"Not many wine careers can have started off on a more superlative level than Haart’s," writes David Schildknecht. It's undeniably true. I can remember tasting Haart's 2011s, the first vintage that came to the States. It was obvious that they would be important wines. For me, 2013 marks the year where all the promise was actualized.

Julian's biography is colorful: Dropping out of school to learn cooking, Julian ended up working at GästeHaus Klaus Erfort, one of the finest restaurants in Germany. The kitchen led him to wine and very quickly, Julian decided to throw himself into wine. His roster of wine apprenticeships is nothing short of unbelievable: Egon Müller, Klaus Peter Keller, Werner Schönleber and Rheinhard Löwenstein.

Keller remains one of Julian's strongest and most influential advocates though it's worth noting that if you've ever had the Goldtröpfchen "GG" from AJ Adam, you've tasted what has to be considered (at least somewhat) a Julian Haart wine. Indeed, Julian and Andreas are great friends and they purchased, 50/50, the old-vine, terraced parcel in the Goldtröpfchen from where this wine comes.

2013 was a very low yielding vintage for the Mosel, but Haart was especially hard hit. Obviously, with 1.5ha, they are always in short supply, but in 2013 it's really ugly. Please give us your ideal order and we'll try our best.

To order, reply to or call the store at (212) 980-9463.

Joe Salamone
Wine Buyer
Crush Wine & Spirits