Old Port: 1955-1970
Taylor Fladgate, Fonseca & Graham
After the week of brutally frigid temperatures we've had, it's hard not to think Port.
For the past few months, we've been stocking up on old Ports from our favorites producers and vintages.
Today, I'm happy to offer the results of this epic sourcing spree.
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This is a very impressive group of vintages. The vintages range from the impeccable harmony of '63 to the nervy backbone of '55 and the structure of '70. Last, and far from least, is '66, which is a vintage with a great reputation that grows steadily with each passing year.
There are tasting notes for each of the wines below. I don't want to belabor this. I'll just close by saying that it's rare for us to have such an impressive group of old Ports in quantities that allow for an offer.
To order, reply to offers@crushwineco.com or call the store at (212) 980-9463.
Ian McFadden
Director, Fine & Rare Wine
Crush Wine & Spirits
Old Port: 1955-1970
Neal Martin: "This example was bottled in Porto and remained in the house’s bin until this tasting. The 1963 Vintage Port has a dark russet color. The nose is beautifully defined, perhaps this particular bottle less exuberant than other that I have encountered. It offers walnut, small cherries, juniper berries and a touch of spirit that expands in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with wonderful balance and fine tannins. It has tremendous weight matched by nigh perfect acidity. It is very harmonious, almost honeyed towards the finish with hazelnut and cloves infusing the decayed fruit and hints of menthol on the spicy aftertaste. This is a sublime Fonseca that will last another two or three decades with ease."
Neal Martin: "This must be one of the most under-rated ports of all time! A deeper colour than the -63, garnet with a brick rim. The nose is typical 66 (in fact, echoing its Left Bank counterparts) in being very conservative and masculine, yet with stunning definition with notes of cigar box, mahogany bureau, sandalwood with an undercurrent of ripe cherry. The palate is foursquare with wonderful structure, spicier and more vigorous than the -63 with a notch more persistency and focus. Very good acidity and as fresh as a daisy on the finish, which has a seductive symmetry about it. Hints of wild strawberry, cigar box, apricot and autumn leaves with superb precision on the finish. A brilliant -66 - it must surely be the best of the vintage?"
Neal Martin: "A deep garnet core with a faded brick rim. The nose is still tight, youthful with notes of liquorices, raisin, boot-polish and a little lemongrass. Again, very well defined and a little more intensity than the -63. The palate is full-bodied with firm tannins, very cohesive with superb ripeness: wild strawberry, lemongrass, smoke and dates with an incredibly long, persistent finish. There is an effortless nature to this port and having encountered this several times, this is undoubtedly the best bottle I have had. It has such weight on the finish that it will cruise past another 20-25 years in bottle. It just has the edge over the great -77"