On Ganevat and Very Old Vines
2011 Ganevat:
Chardonnay Grands Teppes VV
& Chardonnay Chalasses VV
What keeps us returning to Ganevat's wines is their compelling purity, their depth and their tension.
We're not alone. Few producers have blown up the way that Ganevat has.
Ganevat is an intense, uncompromising personality - it shows in the wines. I can't remember the last time that I've seen wines from an obscure region like the Jura capture the interest of long-time Burgundy collectors along with wine geeks in the way Ganevat has.
Every spring we receive our allocation. There was a time when we had free reign and the idea of an allocation was a totally alien notion. Those days are long gone. Now, each year we watch the fan club grow exponentially and the quantities available to us drop.
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| via @crushwineco |
Today, to a small group of Jura fans, we're happy to offer two of Ganevat's top Chardonnays: 2011 Chalasses and Grands Teppes.
Ganevat's work with Chardonnay is very, very compelling and without peer in the Jura. These are wines of regal intensity and decided soil expression. One has to suspect that Ganevat's decade-long stint working with Pierre Morey in Burgundy before returning to his family's domaine is at least partially responsible.
We're really happy with Ganevat's 2011 whites. The comparison to Burgundy is very apt here: there's a saturating presence, but also lift and clarity.
There's a combination of elegance and concentration that's really impressive. The wine is rich, intense and at the same time light on its feet and invigorating. It's also decidedly Jura; offering up notes of marmalade, lemon pith, mushrooms, moss, walnut, baking spices, and pure rocky minerality.
About the two Chardonnays on offer today specifically, the Chalasses VV is from ancient vines planted in 1902. Chalasses VV is Ganevat's densest and most tightly focused Chard. It's full of stony minerality, slightly bitter herbs and citrus fruit.
Ganevat's Grands Teppes VV comes from vines planted in 1919. Grands Teppes VV is a wine of depth and power, leading with stone fruits and sweet herbs that are animated by moss-strewn notes, layered minerals and a marmalade of various citrus fruits.
Given Ganevat's popularity and the painful allocations that we've had to make with past offers, I'm going to wrap this up. For us, like many others, these are life-affirming, captivating wines.
Please give us your ideal order and we'll do our best.
To order, reply to offers@crushwineco.com or call the store at (212) 980-9463.
Joe Salamone
Wine Buyer
Crush Wine & Spirits