"One of Beaujolais's major as well as most consistent talents."
2012 Bouland Morgon:
Corcelette and Delys
Daniel Bouland's Morgons offer a different face of Beaujolais.
Judging by the way that these two wines sell out year after year, there are plenty of people out there who find his wines very compelling.
Bouland's are unabashedly bold, powerful and polished Beaujolais. They are eye-opening expressions of the grape.
Today, I'm happy to offer Bouland's two top wines from the 2012 vintage - his Morgon Corcelette and Morgon Delys.
In no time at all, Bouland has landed on the shortlist of top Beaujolais producers. 2008 was his breakout vintage and his success in this very difficult vintage goes a long way in explaining just how conscientious the work at this domaine is.
It also situates why David Schildknecht writes, "Daniel Bouland is one of Beaujolais's major as well as most consistent talents."
Bouland makes meaty, ageworthy Morgons with complexity to spare, with detail and an interesting combination of rusticity and flash.
At right around the $25 mark, both of these represent incredible value.
To start with the Corcelette, it's sourced from a lieu-dit, which you may know from Foillard's bottling of the same name. Corcelette is a site of sandy granite. Bouland's version is denser than Foillard's, but the site's style remains: it's elegant with effusive aromatics of flowers, granite, and spice.
In contrast, Delys is more about muscle and staining intensity. It comes from 85-year-old vines and produces Bouland's most structured and ageworthy wine. The Delys shows off dark berry fruit, smoke and spice along with pretty, floral top notes. It all gets wrapped around an energetic mineral core draped in gentle but persistent tannins. And it's all rendered with clarity and precision.
Bouland's 2012s are really impressive. They process good clarity, concentration and freshness. Everything bodes well for the wines to really benefit from long-term cellaring.
The catch here is that yields are way, way down. It's not unusual for domaines to see 50% less in 2012. This is all to say that our allocation was much less than usual.
To order, reply to email@example.com or call the store at (212) 980-9463.
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