One of Burgundy's Great Secrets: 2002 Chezeaux Griotte-Chambertin

Posted by Ian McFadden

One of Burgundy's Great Secrets
2002 Chezeaux (Ponsot) Griotte-Chambertin

Today, I'm happy to return to one of my favorite secrets of Burgundy, Chezeaux's Griotte bottling.

The secret? It's made by Laurent Ponsot.

The story here is the French practice of "métayage," an exchange where someone works the land owned by someone else and gives the owner a percentage of the final product.

In short, Ponsot makes the wine from Chezeaux's land, and in return he gets two-thirds of the production, which he bottles under his own label.

We fondly think of this as one of Bungundy's big little secrets. The value that it presents is substantial.

I drank a bottle of the 2002 earlier this week and it showed absolutely beautifully.

Ponsot is one of the most elite producers in Burgundy. The style is unmistakable: Deep, textured, so powerfully dark-fruited and yet, incredibly vivid and elegant. There is a signature at Ponsot that sets them apart from everything in the Cote d'Or.

Ponsot's Griotte is one of our favorite bottlings in his stable. While the Clos de la Roche is muscular and deep, the Griotte is lighter, brighter. It has a simply gorgeous cherry perfume.

Griotte-Chambertin is one of the most elusive Grand Crus in Burgundy; it's the smallest Grand Cru in Gevrey at only 3 hectares in size. Only a handful of producers even make wine in Griotte, but the roster is a testament to the quality of the terroir and the fascination it holds: Ponsot, Drouhin, Fourrier, etc.

Chezeaux's 2002 Griotte shows this Grand Cru in its full glory. As you'd expect from this strong vintage, there's plenty of concentration and finely etched detail. Texturally, it's satiny, ultra-fine, equal parts fruit and mineral. Aromatically, it's just gorgeous. Clearly, this is a wine that's entering its sweet spot on its aging curve.

I should close by mentioning that there's only a small amount available. A Ponsot Grand Cru from this vintage will disappear quickly.

To order, reply to or call the store at (212) 980-9463.

Ian McFadden
Director, Fine & Rare Wine
Crush Wine & Spirits