Brunello As It Should Be
2009 Salvioni Brunello di Montalcino
Grace and Purity in Montalcino
"Giulio Salvioni is one of the great producers of Italy's old guard." -Antonio Galloni, Vinous Media
Salvioni has 4ha and, depending on the vintage, produces two-to-four casks of Brunello per year. There's never a lot of it to go around. And they are always on the short list of fans of traditional Brunello, who fiercely hunt for the wine. The only Brunello producer that I know that's chased as aggressively is Soldera.
Personally, I'm always on the hunt for Salvioni's Brunellos. They are Brunello as it should be - full of purity and grace. We buy Salvioni every vintage, but we've never been able to offer it out because we've never had enough quantity.
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Brunello, alongside Barolo, has long enjoyed the status of Italy's most noble wines. In my mind, it's not the full-throttle intensity of Brunello that qualifies it for this status, but the range of scents and overall nuance that it can pack into Brunello's muscular framework.
It's here that Salvioni excels. Their Brunellos offer a medley of incense, spice and roses, all beautifully integrated with red fruits and minerals. The combination and the clarity in which it is delivered is gorgeous.
Salvioni's 2009 Brunello is slightly more accessible in its youth than their wines normally are. The vintage allowed softer red fruits to take the lead. Beyond that, it is a beautifully harmonious wine with breeding and finesse.
There are no tricks at Salvioni - just very, very well-placed vineyards, traditional practices and exacting standards. It's all pretty straightforward, but the results are extraordinary. These are undoubtedly some of the most compelling and soulful wines coming out of Montalcino.
It shouldn't be surprising that Salvioni's Brunellos age incredibly well. They're wines about harmony, subtlety and serious spines of acid and tannin. The 2009 will age well for the next decade and beyond.
To order, reply to offers@crushwineco.com or call the store at (212) 980-9463.
Ian McFadden
Director, Fine & Rare Wine
Crush Wine & Spirits