Willi Schaefer's collection of 2020 Kabinetts is simply stunning.
As the Mosel Fine Wines quote above makes clear, Schaefer produced some of the top wines of the vintage. For us, their incredibly finessed Kabinetts lead the charge.
 |
The 2020 vintage lends itself to producing beautiful and fairly classical Kabinetts. It allowed Schaefer to produce the first Wehlener Sonnenuhr Kabinett since 2008.
The Schaefer estate is so intimately associated with the village of Graach that Wehlener Sonnenuhr has always occupied an interesting place in Schaefer's lineup. For die-hard Schaefer fans, Wehlener has always been a wine that they've had an enormous affection for.
An extensive tasting of Schaefer back-vintages a few years ago convinced me of Wehlener's importance in the Schaefer holdings and especially its undeniable charm. Wehlener is a little juicier and more enveloping than either Graacher Himmelriech or Domprobst. There's a joyous quality to the wine that's backed by Schaefer's impeccable rigor and precision.
After the 2011 vintage, Schaefer replanted the Wehlener Sonnenuhr vineyard. There was no wine seen from the site until a 2015 Auslese was released.
The 2020 Kabinett has a serious cut and a lifted delicacy. This offers the perfect counterpoint to its silken and creamy texture. There's an incredible persistence and precision to the wine that's packed with lots of nuanced complexity.
Summing up Schaefer's 2020s Jean Fisch and David Rayer of Mosel Fine Wines, write: "If finesse is your thing, look no further!" The 2020 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Kabinett serves as an exemplar of this. It shouldn't be missed.
To order, email offers@crushwineco.com or call the store at (212) 980-9463.
Joe Salamone
Wine Buyer
Crush Wine & Spirits
Mosel Fine Wines: "The 2020er Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett comes from the prime Redellay sector and was fermented down to fruity-styled levels of residual sugar. It offers a subtly ripe nose of melon, vineyard peach, apricot blossom, white flowers, brown sugar, and fine spices, all wrapped into some smoky elements. The wine develops the subtle creaminess of a light Spätlese on the palate. Seemingly smooth at first, a great feel of zest comes through and adds zing to the citrusy and minty-infused finish. The aftertaste blends riper flavors (melon, pear, and dark spices) with fresher citrusy zest. The whole wine oozes subtle creaminess delivered with light-feathered juiciness."