Middle Mosel Majesty
2012 Schloss Lieser
Niederberg Helden Grosses Gewächs
"This is very clearly one of the greatest estates in Germany today." -John Gilman
In just a couple decades, Thomas Haag has firmly placed Schloss Lieser among the best of Germany. Such a swift rise is almost unheard of.
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When it comes to making dry wines in the Middle Mosel, Lieser has few peers.
Schloss Lieser's 2012 Niederberg Helden GG is razor-sharp, invigorating, sleek and flawlessly balanced. These are the hallmarks of the estate, in general, but they really shine in the Grosses Gewächs format.
The 2012 vintage was an ideal one for Schloss Lieser's style and Mosel dry wines in general. There's plenty of substance and yet beautiful clarity and verve.
Thomas Haag has made it his life's work to bring the village of Lieser and its great site, Niederberg Helden, back to the fame it had at the beginning of the 20th Century. The vineyard is an intimidating presence, a rogue wall of slate that rises on the northern side of the Mosel, just downstream from the Brauneberger Juffer. The site receives good water and therefore articulates Rieslings of uncommon depth and power, at least for the Middle Mosel. This makes it particularly well suited for dry wines.
Yet, even with the heft and muscle, the wine flaunts a ruthless display of slate. This is the magic of what Thomas Haag accomplishes.
Even for an estate that has been on a tear vintage after vintage, the 2012 Helden GG stands out for its poise, depth and length. This is a bottle well worth buying a few of and following for the next five or more years.
To order, reply to offers@crushwineco.com or call the store at (212) 980-9463.
Joe Salamone
Wine Buyer
Crush Wine & Spirits