"One of the world's finest craftsmen
in the medium of white wine."
2013 Chidaine Montlouis "Les Choisilles"
Chidaine is one of the defining voices of Chenin Blanc in the Loire.
Over the years, we've penned plenty of emails on Chidaine. Every vintage, there's a bottle or two from the vast range that really impresses us.
In 2013, it's Les Choisilles. When a sales rep poured it for us, the verdict was swift and clear: this is an absolutely gorgeous expression of Chenin.
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It's amazing what Les Choisilles delivers. There are few, if any, wines that offer so much value and such ageability. In the context of Chenin, there's no competition.
Les Choisilles takes its name from a type of black flint soil. Sourced from old vines of up to 90 years of age in the vineyards of Les Epinais, La Taille aux Loups, and Clos au Renard, the grapes are left to ripen longer than usual on the vine, lending an intense concentration to the wine, which is then vinified completely dry. The result is a richness and verve rarely found in dry Loire whites.
This is a brutally mineral wine. We love it for the tension and refined intensity that Les Choisilles boasts. The racy spirit of 2013 comes through in this wine, all saline and citrus rinds. It's electric, yet supple: hard-hitting minerality, detailed elegance, and an almost intellectual finish.
I don't want to come across as too hyperbolic, so instead I'll let Peter Liem provide a succinct explanation as to why Chidaine works for me: "François Chidaine is one of my favorite winemakers in the world. There are times when I can imagine drinking only his wines for the rest of my life."
Along with Chardonnay and Riesling, Chenin forms the holy trinity of noble white grapes. In Chidaine's hands, this couldn't ring more true. His wines have such clarity and flawlessly sleek compositions.
We're really excited to watch this bottle evolve over the next 5-7 years and beyond.
To order, please email us at offers@crushwineco.com or call the store at (212) 980-9463.
Joe Salamone
Wine Buyer
Crush Wine & Spirits