Outrageous Grand Cru Red Burgundy Value

Posted by CrushWine

Spotted: Outrageous Burgundy Value
2006 Tollot-Beaut Corton-Bressandes
Grand Cru Red Burgundy
If you haven't indulged in a Corton rouge in a while, here's your ticket back for another visit.

We're huge fans of this village and its red wines; the values one can find here are incredible. Case in point: today's 2006 Tollot-Beaut Corton-Bressandes.

These are delicious, ageworthy, honest Burgundies that seem to combine the sexy fruit of Volnay amplified into the kind of ruggedness and authenticity of a Pommard. And in the right hands, there's the undeniable weight and fruit of a legitimate Grand Cru wine.

If anyone wants to argue about Corton rouge's merit, let DRC's recent lease of land just down the path from Tollot-Beaut in Les Bressandes, Les Renardes and Clos du Roi make a point that, yes, these sites have huge potential.

Tollot-Beaut is based in Chorey-les-Beaune - that, instead of somewhere like Gevrey or Vosne, likely accounts for their relatively under-the-radar status - but that doesn't stop them from producing fantastic Burgundies with the same artisanal, quality-dedicated mindset we always look for. They use no fertilizers. They keep yields low. They harvest by hand.

These are lovely, ripe, with a sheen of purity and a "sumptuous" quality as Andrew Jefford says in The New France. He continues, "the sweetly expressive Corton-Bressandes is the domain's pinnacle."

Here, Tollot-Beaut cultivates vines that are over 50 years old, which turn out a Pinot with juicy, almost boisterous red berries and a mineral-packed structure, even while it maintains a softly textured profile.

Though 2006s were overshadowed by their predecessor vintage, Tollot-Beaut was able to achieve here wonderfully ripe fruit that's also fresh and armed with purity. If the influence of oak in Tollot-Beaut's wines was once fairly evident, it's backed off in the last decade; here, it adds a slight gloss and padding to the hedge of minerals rather than contributing overt notes of toast or vanilla.

The structure inherent in most red Cortons (particularly Grand Cru) means that they're more ageworthy than you might expect, particularly for the 06 vintage. While this is certainly beautiful now - and certainly priced such that you can enjoy it now without guilt - this definitely has another five, 10, even 15 years on it with proper cellaring.

Again, finding Grand Cru red Burgundies with that kind of longevity at this kind of pricing is exceedingly rare. We urge you to stock up (or at least as much as our small parcel will allow). To order, please email us at offers@crushwineco.com or call the store at (212) 980-9463.

Ian McFadden
Director, Fine & Rare Wine
Crush Wine & Spirits

2006 Tollot-Beaut Corton-Bressandes

Burghound: This is another small step up in aromatic elegance and refinement with moderately high-toned and gorgeously pure red berry fruit aromas that are notably mineral in character and this minerality continues onto the detailed, rich and energetic medium weight plus flavors that culminate in a dusty, mouth coating and equally driving finish. A choice and while this is slightly riper the Corton is perhaps slightly more complex.

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