Pépière's Monumental Muscadet
2005 Pépière Muscadet "Trois"
The Muscadet Genius's Most Ambitious Cuvée to Date
Marc Ollivier's name looms large over Muscadet. Indeed, for lovers of chiseled mineral whites, his name looms large over the entire wine landscape.
His new cuvée, "Trois," will surely cause a stir.
We love Muscadet, and there are a handful of producers that we drink, recommend, and cellar. In recent years, however, Marc Ollivier and his Domaine de la Pépière have undoubtedly begun to pull away from the crowd.
If it hasn't happened already, Ollivier seems destined to occupy that rarefied space where a producer simply transcends his or her respective appellation. Think of Huet in Vouvray, Clos Rougeard in Saumur-Champigny, Ferrando in Carema, Keller in the Rheinhessen, etc.
With the release of his 2005 Muscadet "Trois," Marc Ollivier may have sealed the deal. "Trois" is a tour de force, at once an affirmation of what Muscadet is all about and at the same time, a wine that delivers such concentration and complexity that it seemsto also be a radical break with assumptions of what Muscadet can deliver.
With wines like the chiseled Clos des Briords and Granite de Clisson, Marc Olivier hardly needed another jewel in his crown - but he definitely has one here. " Trois" has been released after an impressive five years of development (three years on the lees and two in bottle). We're happy to be introducing the wine to the market.
If Pépière's old-vine Clos des Briords takes Muscadet close to its Platonic ideal of jagged saline minerality infused with ripe citrus, then "Trois" continues more emphatically the Burgundy-like style one can observe in his Granite de Clisson. "Trois," in fact, comes from the same granite soils as Granite de Clisson, but compared to Clisson's 24 months on lees, Trois spends a whopping 36 months on them.
"Trois" quickly moves from textbook Muscadet notes of oceanic minerality and electric citrus to what can only be described as weightier, Chablis-like notes of honey and hay. The extra year on the lees leads to an almost alchemic transformation into something not only richer and more complex, but also something more pristinely expressive and finessed. The profile moves from rich salty minerals, wet rocks and ripe pith fruits before being complicated by notes of smoke, honey and orchard fruits. Behind it all there's an intriguing herbal note that shows at times like chervil and at other times like rue or even licorice.
For Pépière fans, this is a wine that demands some space in your cellar. For those not initiated into the cult of Pépière - especially you Burgundy lovers - this is certainly worth a look. The trajectory of this wine, being a first release, is unknown; but our money is on a long and favorable evolution. Those who have tasted Pépière's 88 Clos des Briords can attest to what some time in the cellar can do to his wines.
The fact that a wine of this caliber and ageabiity can be had for such a great price is one of the wine world's great mysteries. Instead of pondering this mystery too hard, we suggest that you raise a glass to Marc Ollivier for another astounding achievement.
To order, email us at firstname.lastname@example.org or call the store at (212) 980-9463.
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