Pepiere's Clisson Comes of Age: 2010 Pepiere Clisson

Posted by Joe Salamone

The Best Clisson?
2010 Pépière Muscadet Clisson
Clisson Comes of Age

Marc Ollivier of Domaine Pépière is the grand master of Muscadet and when he nails a vintage, something very big happens.

That's the story with Pépière's 2010 Clisson.

I've drunk many bottles and each has really impressed me. The last bottle was just stunning - 2010 may be my favorite Clisson to date.

Pépière is a producer that we're behind every vintage. In a region where there's no shortage of dedicated, great producers, Marc Ollivier stands out. Like Huet in Vouvray, like Clos Rougeard in Saumur-Champigny, Pépière is in a league of his own, seeming to almost transcend the appellation and yet, also firmly planted in it.

Pépière's are some of the greatest values out there.Note: this is the same wine that was labeled Granite de Clisson. The name changed due to AOC regulations.

Clisson is an area in the southern part of the Muscadet appellation with sandy, stony granite soils. The vines here are 50-110 years old and the wine spends 24 months on the lees. All of this contributes to the wine's power, complexity and depth.

If Pépière's old-vine Clos des Briords takes Muscadet close to its Platonic ideal of jagged saline minerality infused with ripe citrus, thenClisson is Burgundy-like in style: combining oceanic notes and electric citrus with what can only be described as weightier, Chablis-like notes of honey and hay.

Clisson introduces a level of depth, richness and complexity that's startling. What makes 2010 so successful is the way it takes the weight and complexity that defines Clisson and animates it with an energetic spine of razor sharp minerality and focus.

The 2010 vintage gave Pépière the perfect materials to render a Clisson that was bright and nimble and profoundly intriguing and multifaceted. There was excellent ripeness, but also great verve and high-toned fruits. What results is a wine of crazy length, detail and balance.

Clisson was released in 05, 07 and 09 and they've all been really good, but in 2010 it all came together. 2010 marks the year that Clisson hits a level where it will assume a place next to Pépière's legends, like Briords from 96, 02 and 07.

As I mentioned at the beginning, Pépière always makes great wine, but when he nails a vintage and a wine the way he did with his 2010 Clisson, it's time to stock up. It has an easy decade plus of aging ahead of it.

To order, reply to or call the store at (212) 980-9463.

Joe Salamone
Wine Buyer
Crush Wine & Spirits

2010 Pépière Clisson

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