Bertheau's wines are honest in the most commendable, purest way - there's no flash to them, and that's part of what makes them so captivating.
They are wines that feel as though they're without artifice. The wines are animated by a fine-ness, a delicacy. They speak softly, but with captivating precision.
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Of his lineup, the Chambolle 1er Cru may offer the best value. Regardless of the vintage, it's a study in elegance with haunting perfume, beautiful transparency, and heart-breaking delicacy.
The 2017 has a startling clarity that helps to capture what makes the Chambolle 1er Cu so compelling. It's energetic with a crackling minerality and an incredible silken texture.
Bertheau is a small domaine with only 6.2ha. His 1er Cru is a blend of four different 1er Crus that total 1ha. It's not practical to bottle these separately, so he blends the sites. Among the four 1er Crus are the impressive Baudes which is in the shadows of Bonnes Mares, and the very minerally and elegant Gruenchers.
Bertheau's are some of the Burgundies that I'm most fond of. Few producers do purity and transparency better than Bertheau. The 2017 Chambolle 1er Cru is a perfect snapshot of what makes Bertheau so special. I'm happy to have another opportunity to offer.
To order, email offers@crushwineco.com or call the store at (212) 980-9463.
Ian McFadden
Director, Fine & Rare Wine
Crush Wine & Spirits
Antonio Galloni, Vinous Media: "A softly spicy and more floral-suffused nose is quite high-toned with its aromas of the airy essence of red pinot fruit and pomegranate. There is equally good vibrancy to the delicious and slightly denser medium-bodied flavors that possess a caressing mouthfeel as well as a sneaky long finish. This pretty, lacy and mineral-suffused effort should also drink well young though I would be inclined to give it a few years of cellaring in the hopes that better depth will develop."