Château Thivin is one of the unsung great producers of Beaujolais.
Sadly, finding their top wines in the U.S. is very difficult. There's no doubt that if these wines were more available Thivin would be held in much higher esteem. At their best, Thivin turns out Beaujolais of truly uncommon earthy depth and layered complexity.
.jpg) |
Today, I'm happy to offer Thivin's rarely seen Griottes de Brulhié, Godefroy, and cuvée Zaccharie, all from the 2019 vintage.
The wines of Côte du Brouilly have sadly gotten somewhat lost amidst the greater star power of the more northern crus, like Morgon and Fleurie. In terms of the diversity and interest that Beaujolais has to offer, this is an unfortunate circumstance. Côte du Brouilly sits on Mt. Brouilly, an extinct volcano. The soil is defined by diorite, which is a hard volcanic rock, with a small influence of clay. The resulting wines have a profound architecture and power along with a soaring cast of aromatics.
Château Thivin has long been a benchmark in Côte du Brouilly. The legendary food writer, Richard Olney, served as Kermit Lynch's translator and somewhat as a guide in Lynch's early days. Olney, a lover of Beaujolais and wine in general, introduced Lynch to Thivin in 1976.
Starting with Griottes de Brulhié, it is a south-facing site that produces wines with soaring aromatics of flowers, spices, smoke, and bright red and dark fruit. Godefroy is from an east-facing vineyard of 80-100-year-old vines. It's a powerful and structured Beaujolais that delivers really impressive complexity. Finally, cuvée Zaccharie is an old vine bottling from Thivin's two top vineyards, La Chapelle and Godefroy, selected after élevage. Zaccharie is a tour de force that, regardless of vintage, is a mind-bending Beaujolais.
In recent vintages, Thivin's lineup has been especially strong. Their hard work in the vineyard and more structured style have really paid off in the warmer vintages the region has been seeing. The 2019s are stunning, combining power with finesse and lift. Before closing, I should mention that quantities are extremely limited.
To order, email offers@crushwineco.com or call the store at (212) 980-9463.
Joe Salamone
Wine Buyer
Crush Wine & Spirits
Côte de Brouilly Les Griottes de Brulhié
Special Bottle Price: $32.95
Côte de Brouilly Godefroy
Special Bottle Price: $35.95
Côte de Brouilly Cuvée Zaccharie
Special Bottle Price: $43.95