Rare, Revelatory Loire: 2021 Bernaudeau Vin de France Les Onglés

Posted by Ian McFadden

Bernaudeau's wines are some of the purest and most energetic expressions of Chenin that you'll find.

Few Loire producers have jumped to the top of people's lists as quickly as Bernaudeau. In no time, they have become some of the hardest Loire wines to track down. 

Today's offer is a case in point. There are only five other listings in the country. 

photo of bottle of Bernaudeau Les Ongles

This is the sort of offer that we could only sneak in during our progressive sale. It's both attractive enough to get people's attention while the sale is happening, and because people are distracted by the sale, it makes it much less likely to sell out. 

The first time that I tasted Bernaudeau's Les Onglés, it was a revelation. The wines have a clarity, a deep mineral imprint, and liveliness that are fascinating and straight-up delicious.

Stéphane Bernaudeau labels his wines Vin de France so as not to be restricted by the notions "typically" held by the governing bodies of the AOC.

Bernaudeau has just over 3ha of vines in Anjou and learned winemaking and biodynamic farming from Mark Angeli of Sansonnière, who is one of the great advocates of biodynamic winemaking in the Loire.

The wines at Bernaudeau are bottled by parcel. Les Onglés comes from a two-hectare parcel of 30-year-old vines planted on schist. In 2021, Les Onglés has a shocking cut and crystalline precision. There's a nice mineral purity that sets off the wine's layers of orchard fruits and spice.

I'm going to wrap this up. Bernaudeau has such an enthusiastic following that I'm sure our small parcel will disappear quickly. If you haven't checked out Bernaudeau, the wines are very much worth experiencing. There are few wines in the Loire that I enjoy drinking as much as I do Bernaudeau.

To order, email offers@crushwineco.com or call the store at (212) 980-9463.

Ian McFadden
Director, Fine & Rare
Crush Wine & Spirits

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