Few Loire producers have jumped to the top of people's lists as quickly as Bernaudeau.
When you taste the wines, it's very easy to understand why. They are some of the purest and most energetic expressions of Chenin that you'll find.
Sadly, finding Bernaudeau is a major issue. For example, there are only three other listings in the U.S. for the wine that we're offering today, the 2020 Les Onglés. This is the sort of offer that we could only sneak in on a Sunday. The quantities are just too small, and the interest is too high.
The first time that I tasted Bernaudeau's Les Onglés it was a revelation. The wines have a clarity, a deep mineral imprint, and liveliness that is fascinating and straight-up delicious.
Stéphane Bernaudeau labels his wines Vin de France, so as not to be restricted by the notions "typically" held by the governing bodies of the AOC.
Bernaudeau has just over 3ha of vines in Anjou and learned winemaking and biodynamic farming from Mark Angeli of Sansonnière, who is one of the great advocates of biodynamic winemaking in the Loire.
The wines at Bernaudeau are bottled by parcel. Les Onglés comes from a two-hectare parcel of 30-year-old vines planted on schist. In 2020, Les Onglés has a shocking cut and precision with a core of dark minerality. There's a nice raciness that sets off the wine's layers of orchard fruits and spice.
I'm going to wrap this up. Bernaudeau has such an enthusiastic following that I'm sure our small parcel will disappear quickly. If you haven't checked out Bernaudeau, the wines are very much worth experiencing. There are few wines in the Loire that I enjoy drinking as much as I do Bernaudeau.
To order, email email@example.com or call the store at (212) 980-9463.
Director, Fine & Rare
Crush Wine & Spirits