Middle Mosel Magic
2009 Schloss Lieser Juffer Sonnenuhr Spätlese
The Best of the Mosel in 2009 - SUPER LIMITED!
"...many reports are circulating that the Schloss Lieser 2009ers are amongst the greatest wines produced in Germany this year." - John Gilman, View from the Cellar
So writes Mr. John Gilman in his 2009 German report. He continues: "It's a rumor I cannot confirm or deny right now, but which I intend to verify as soon as I can sink my teeth into some of their wines from this vintage."
While we wait, I'm happy to confirm the rumor.
I tasted Thomas Haag's Schloss Lieser wines twice in Germany and then again in New York and across the board, the collection is absolutely superb. As with Klaus-Peter Keller in the south, Thomas was able to capture the energy and vigor of the vintage in a way that few others did - the wines are electric, angular, explosive, with ferocious mineral and superb length.
For me, the Juffer Sonnenuhr Spätlese is the star of the show - a perfectly proportioned Spätlese that flaunts an extreme tension. On the one hand, it has a simply outrageous ripeness, blazing, mango and kiwi, apricot and peach of ridiculous clarity, all controlled by a muscular mineral and acidity.
Curious about the laser-like focus and super-fine agility that has made Mosel Riesling so famous? It doesn't get much better than this.
Everywhere I traveled in Germany the discussion inevitably went to Schloss Lieser and the result is... well, intense demand has put even more stress on the already-short 2009 vintage and this year's Schloss Lieser collection, never very big, is going to be very hard to find.
After tasting the wines in Germany I placed a big order for the Juffer Sonnenuhr Spätlese. Just last night, interrupting my dinner at Cornelius in Brooklyn, the importer called me to tell me my order had been cut back by about 60%.
Honestly, I'm happy for Thomas - I consider him a friend and I admire what he's done with this estate, which I'd say has now very firmly established itself as among the greatest in Germany.
It does mean, however, that an offer that was going to go out to the full list is now only going to those of you who have supported our German Riesling program. It also means we will likely have to restrict orders to 3-6 bottles, but do give us your maximum request and we'll do our best.
To order, please email us at firstname.lastname@example.org or call the store at (212) 980-9463. All orders subject to confirmation.
Crush Wine & Spirits
2009 Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr Spätlese