Rock Dog: Riesling at its Most Mysterious
2012 Nikolaihof Riesling Steiner Hund Reserve
"The tiny [Steiner Hund] site is doubtless one of the 5-10 greatest bits of land on which Riesling grows." -Terry Theise
Talk to Austrian experts about the best vineyards for Riesling and you'll hear the same four sites: Kellerberg, Singerriedel, Steinertal and Steiner Hund.
Of the list, no Riesling is as hauntingly and unfathomably complex as Nikolaihof's Steiner Hund. Every time you think that you have a grasp on Steiner Hund, another nuance reveals itself. Every year, Steiner Hund is one of our favorite bottles of Riesling.
 |
The 2012 Steiner Hund is explosive. Young Steiner Hund is always a bit subdued, but there's a breadth of expressiveness to the 2012 that makes it unique. Putting your finger on Steiner Hund is futile, and the '12 comes close to laying bare the ridiculous range that this bottle delivers.
Steiner Hund is one of the greatest and most singular expressions of Riesling on the planet. It brings forth a dizzying spectrum of minerals, flowers and earth. All of this is delivered with poise and a creamy, tactile presence.
The Steiner Hund site is a small piece of land that is holy ground for Riesling. The "catch," however, is that this plot of land lies just outside the official boundaries of the Wachau, and as such it cannot have a "Smaragd" designation - so it goes under the cover of "Reserve," meaning simply that it is a wine harvested later and in this specific case, aged for an extended period of time in older, neutral barrels.
Steiner Hund can compete with the best Rieslings anywhere yet it undoubtedly exists on its own plane. It's always a pleasure to offer. Few bottles offer such an utterly unique profundity.
To order, email offers@crushwineco.com or call the store at (212) 980-9463.
Joe Salamone
Wine Buyer
Crush Wine & Spirits
2012 Nikolaihof Riesling Steiner Hund Reserve