2011 Dujac Vosne-Romanée
1er Cru Aux Malconsorts
"This is a serious wine" — Burghound
This is a serious wine, as Allen Meadows says. It is also a really, really important wine.
Dujac is one of the top producers in Vosne, and Malconsorts is a top 1er Cru, brushing shoulders with La Tâche on some of Burgundy's most hallowed ground.
Tasting the 2011s out of barrel, it was clear to me (and the consensus agrees) that Dujac was by far one of the most successful producers of the vintage. These wines have everything good about 2011, with none of the hang-ups: fresh, juicy fruit, and a pure, classic clarity of terroir.
If Vosne-Romanée conjures up velvet gloves, Malconsorts is the iron fist. There is a commanding presence to this wine, and it is undeniably Dujac—combining power with grace, and a ruthless sensuality that hits every note. It is haunting, ethereal—something only the greats can achieve.
The proximity of Malconsorts to La Tâche is more than geographic. Malconsorts has this incredible brooding richness married to ethereal aromatics that is reminiscent of the great monopole. If on one side, you have the masculine power of Richebourg and La Grande Rue, and the femininity of Romanée Saint Vivant on the other,Malconsorts attains a near perfect balance. Over all other top Burgundy crus, this is what La Tâche and Malconsorts achieve: power without weight.
Hallowed status notwithstanding, this is still a family affair. Elder statesman Jacques continues to be involved in the estate, and his son Jeremy helms the winemaking with his wife and second son Alec lends invaluable help. The balance has been struck, and the run that the domaine's been on for the past four vintages, from 2008 on, has been off-the-charts fantastic.
Dujac's Malconsorts is Grand Cru for all intents and purposes—except in price. While this is by no means cheap, when compared to its peers, the relative value is undeniable. Cathiard's 2011 Malconsorts is pushing $400, and for De Montille and Hudelot-Noellat, there's just nothing in terms of quantity. That's what happens with a wine like Malconsorts, the rare Grand Cru experience under a 1er Cru name. The wines are cellared away upon release, and that's it.
This parcel is part of a purchase made by Dujac and De Montille off one of the old negociants in 2005. When Dujac and De Montille bought the land, the number of quality producers in Malconsorts doubled—from just two, to four. Even with the doubling, there's just not a lot of this wine from anyone.
It's really wonderful to see a producer like Dujac, whose Morey-Saint-Denis wines I love, bring his attuned touch to the Vosne. And there is the same signature I've come to associate with Dujac: There is life and energy to these wines, and while they are some of the most serious, they are ultimately—and frankly, most importantly—eminently drinkable.
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Director, Fine and Rare
Crush Wine & Spirits