Two is Better than One
2009 Willi Schaefer Domprobst Spätlesen
Details matter and today we zero in on the bottom edge of what has to be one of the best labels in all of Germany.
On the Willi Schaefer label, this is where the AP number lives, the equivalent of wine's social security number.
Willi and his son Christoph Schaefer are, unequivocally, old-school Moselaners and as such, they bottle numerous wines from the same vineyard and they don't seem to care much that the only way to tell them apart is a eleven-digit code printed in a miniscule font at the bottom of the label. (See below - it's the number above the phrase, "contains sulphites." Note this is just an example AP number, not the one from the wines on offer today.)
This all comes from a time long before snazzy marketing and in-your-face labeling. The simple fact is that different grapes, different barrels, even when they are from the same vineyard, sometimes produce markedly different wines.
And when this happens, well, the Schaefers bottle them separately so we can all enjoy the profound nuances of German Riesling and they tell us by using different AP numbers.
Today, it's with great pleasure and a bit of divine providence that we're able to offer out a FINAL tranche of two of Schaefer's magnificent 2009 Spätlesen from the Domprobst vineyard - the Spätlese #5 and the Spätlese #10.
As a quick reminder, the 2009 Schaefer's are great (click here for a little reminder). This is an absolutely spectacular vintage for Schaefer; compact and stuffed mid-palates that remain ultra-lively due to the crisp acids. At Schaefer, this vintage has everything.
The wines of Willi and Christoph Schaefer have a quiet, calm perfection, an ease and a grace that few other wines, anywhere, have. It's as if everything truly great, was also very easy and cosmically benevolent. They are angelic, wispy and pure even as they riddle the palate with incredible complexity.
|In the Graacher Domprobst, looking down onto the sleepy town of Graach and the Mosel River beyond it.|
Both wines - the #5 and the #10 - come from the Nicolaslay, one of their top parcels just behind the village of Graach. The rather stoic David Schildknecht always becomes something of a poet when writing about Schaefer's wines.
There are more hyphenated adjectives below than even we could come up with. Read these reviews! Seriously, they are mighty entertaining and, of course, spot on.
These are Spätlesen treasures of 2009 and this is a surprise final call, even if it is just a few cases. Quantities, as always with the Schaefers, are painfully limited. Give us your maximum order and we'll do our best.
To order, email us at firstname.lastname@example.org or call the store at (212) 980-9463.
Crush Wine & Spirits
Domprobst Spätlese #5
Domprobst Spätlese #10