Among the vineyards of Sancerre, La Grande Côte is king.
We recently tasted through Boulay's 2019 lineup and La Côte was the standout.
This isn't exactly surprising. La Grande Côte produces Sauvignon Blancs of epic scale and intricate architecture. Boulay produces some of my favorite examples of Sancerre and when he released his first La Côte in 2010, it was clear that this would be an important wine.
The Boulay family has held land in Sancerre for over 600 years. Along with Vatan and the Cotat cousins, Boulay produces some of the most elegant, complex, and long-lived Sancerres.
Where Vatan and the Cotats are dense and layered Sancerres that demand bottle age, Boulay stands out for its drinkability, poise, and finessed precision. We've tasted Boulay's wines several decades old, and a very impressive 1959. As dazzling as Boulay can be young, it stands the test of time in an impressive way.
La Grande Côte is in Chavignol, which is Sancerre's best area and one defined by its soil. Chavignol shares the same Kimmeridgian soil as the Chablis' top sites. Sancerres from Chavignol possess an emphatic chalky minerality and kinetic energy.
The La Côte is the deepest and has the most complicated composition of Boulay's wines. It possesses a powerful and persistent minerality that's simultaneously stony and salty. There's explosive notes of herbs, citrus, and flowers. The 2019 is dense and layered. This is a jam-packed and powerful vintage, but also one with a sculpted detail.
For me, the 2019 La Côte drives home how careful the winemaking is at Boulay. Few Sancerre's managed to harness the intensity of the vintage and endow it with finesse and harmony. I'm very happy to offer it.
To order, email offers@crushwineco.com or call the store at (212) 980-9463.
Ian McFadden
Director, Fine & Rare Wine
Crush Wine & Spirits