Bulletproof
2011 Chevillon Nuits-St.-Georges VV, 1er Cru Les Cailles
"There is simply stunning potential here." -John Gilman
One of the things that we love about Chevillon is that the estate seems bulletproof. Almost regardless of the vintage, Chevillon doesn't miss.
A 1989 Cailles opened at 606 R&D in Brooklyn a few months ago was lavish and coating. Yet, unlike a lot of 89s, it matched this density with equal parts finesse and energy. It had lift. On the flip side, a 1996 Cailles cracked open at the store was textural and seamless - a stunning example of the vintage at its best.
And so it is for Chevillon's 2011s - they transcend any and all expectations of the vintage. Those who think the 11s are only for early drinking, that they are petite charmers that will flower and fade quickly, Chevillon is likely to present a serious challenge.
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Indeed, this is exactly the type of vintage that often sings at Chevillon. The density of Chevillon's Nuits-St.-Georges matched to the inherent elegance of the vintage; it is a formidable combination.
And because the tiny village of Nuits-St.-Georges flies under the radar, with no Grand Crus, no obvious hooks for the clever hand of marketing to hang its hat on, Chevillon's wines remain outstanding values.
The Nuits-St.-Georges VV is an old-vine over-achiever. The famous earth and mineral and meatiness of this village is married to fruit that is incredibly perfumed, with all the elegance and purity of 2011. Gilman writes of the "full-bodied, pure and nicely focused [flavors], with a sappy core of fruit, impressive transparency, and fine-grained tannins." This is well beyond the average village wine.
The 1er Cru Les Cailles is the stoniest plot in Nuits-St.-Georges; this delivers epic purity and epic structure. The striking thing is that amidst all this power the wine manages an undeniable elegance. John Gilman pretty much nails it when he writes, "an absolute reference point example of this superb terroir."
Nuits-St.-Georges is nearly always among the most textured, most masculine expressions of the Côte d'Or - and while there is no lack of density or structure, there is a clarity to Chevillon's 2011s, a brightness and energy that is thrilling... it also promises the wines have a good life ahead of them.
Chevillon wines are for the purist and the patient, for the thrill-seeker and the value-hunter. These are not to be missed.
To order, reply to offers@crushwineco.com or call the store at (212) 980-9463.
Ian McFadden
Director, Fine and Rare Wine
Crush Wine & Spirits
2011 Chevillon is pre-arrival
NET | No further discount