Soil Speaks - 0.33ha Surrounded
by a Sea of Limestone
2013 Keller Kirchspiel RR
"The long and silky finish bears a lot of tension and makes this a serious wine for the next 20 or more years."
-Stephan Reinhardt, The Wine Advocate
When we first started tasting the 2013s, we immediately suspected that these were wines that needed six months or a year to truly reveal themselves. This has really proven to be true.
A bunch of recent 2013s have been crazy good. Because of this, I wanted to revisit Keller's 2013 Kirchspiel RR. Keller produced a stunning line-up in 2013. The 2013 "RR" is an obvious candidate for the best version of this wine that Keller has produced.
The "RR" is the outlier of the Keller stable. It's unfortunate that because it doesn't fit into neat categories, it's prone to being overlooked. This bottle has a very high potential to be absolutely thrilling. No doubt the 2013 represents a high point for this bottling.
"RR" comes from a tiny 0.33ha pocket of red soil surrounded by a sea of limestone. If anyone has established the nobility of German Riesling grown on limestone, it's Keller.
Riesling fans will note terroir transparency is on bold display here. Compared to the limestone origins of the Kirchspiel GG, the RR shows a more brooding, darker mineral expression with wet stones and moist earth, even tobacco and clay. Keller feels that the off-dry format is much better for the red soils.
Keller produced amazing 2013s. Part of the story is that the Rheinhessen was spared much of the difficult weather that the Mosel and other parts north experienced. Of course, the other part is that Keller is a super-talented, insightful winemaker.
The "RR" really shines in this high acid and classic vintage. The 2013 "RR" is tension-filled, wonderfully balanced and has an incisive stoniness. It's powerful, long and ruthlessly detailed.
Keller really nailed it with the 2013 "RR." There's harmony with finesse and complexity to spare. This is a don't miss.
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