There's an enormous amount of excitement building for 2014 Chablis.
To sum up the vintage quickly, it's very classical, hitting that rare and magical combination of concentration, verve and vivid elegance.
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Thomas Pico of Pattes-Loup is one of Chablis' young rising stars. We've worked with the wines from the moment that they became available, but it wasn't until the 2014 vintage that we had enough quantity for a small offering. Having said this, I need to mention that the quantity available is really modest.
Pico is part of a new generation of growers in Chablis that represents a sea of change in the region. Too often, Chablis is over cropped, machine harvested and the vineyards are treated with an excess of chemicals. Pico, along with maybe a handful of young growers including the De Moors, is dedicated to working organically in the vineyard and hand harvesting at low yields. The results are really impressive. Antonio Galloni called Pico's wines "some of the most ground-breaking, intensely captivating wines being made in Chablis today."
The style here is deeply textural, backed by acid and a mineral cut. The combination of resonance and radiant zip really sets the wines apart.
Within this context, the Vent d'Ange is the most incisive bottling, while maintaining a gripping, mineral depth. It comes from 55 year-old vines and is aged in stainless steel and concrete eggs, the latter helping to accentuate the palate presence from the low yields. The Vent d'Ange flaunts layers of yellow fruits woven into a talc-like minerality, with saline notes and high-toned floral nuances. There's something chewier, more multidimensional than what most Chablis deliver.
I'm going to wrap this up. Given the vintage and the small quantity available, I'm sure this will disappear. Please give us your ideal order and we'll try our best.
To order, email offers@crushwineco.com or call the store at (212) 980-9463.
Joe Salamone
Wine Buyer
Crush Wine & Spirits