Sub-$30 Red Burgundy Value: 2011 Duband Cotes de Nuits - Village

Posted by Ian McFadden

2011 Duband Côte de Nuits-Village
Burgundy's Rising Star

I'm always on the hunt for value Burgundy, for the types of Burgs that you can pop and pour whenever you want.

Duband's 2011 Côte de Nuits-Village has become one of my go-to wines in this category.

It has plenty of beautiful Pinot fruit, the subtle underlying minerality and the freshness and punch. Over the years, I've started to expect a lot from Duband's overachieving Côte de Nuits-Village. And the 2011 edition surpassed my expectations.

His Côte de Nuits is sourced from Brochon, an area just outside of Gevrey-Chambertin. This is an insider village - a place that produces serious fruit. Duband's Côte de Nuits shares some of Gevrey's power and muscle.

Duband's sensitivity and meticulousness really shows in his Côte de Nuits-Village. There's plenty of polish and soulful nuance to it for this price level and appellation. The darker Pinot fruit is floral and slightly spicy with a silken generosity to it and good depth of minerality.

Duband has been improving ever since his inaugural 1991 vintage. He was just 19 when he took over the domaine. With each passing vintage his commitment to quality has been increasingly apparent. The wines grow more elegant and more transparent each year. The simple fact is that in the past few years Duband has situated himself as a star on the rise.

It really seems that Duband is just starting to hit his stride and that the future is very bright. He's one of the most exacting and serious young winemakers in Burgundy. His recent expansion, including a lease on the Jacky Truchot domaine, has given him some choice plots in the Grand Crus of Charmes-Chambertin and Clos de la Roche. He continues to work incredibly hard in the vineyards and has fully converted to organic viticulture. He is definitely one to watch.

The 2011 Burgundy vintage delivered many very attractive and impressive wines. Burghound nails it when he writes, "they have this beguiling sense of harmony, partially because they are so well-balanced but also because the tannins are so ripe and fine grained."

These qualities of the 2011 vintage make for particularly lovely bottles for short-term drinking, say over the next five years.

Duband's 2011 Côte de Nuits-Village exemplifies these characteristics. As the temperatures start to cool down, this is a beautifully versatile bottle to have on hand. The only catch is that 2011 is another low-yielding vintage in Burgundy and quantities are limited.

To order, reply to or call the store at (212) 980-9463.

Ian McFadden
Director, Fine & Rare
Crush Wine & Spirits

2011 Duband Côte de Nuits-Village

Allen Meadows: "This is an elegant Nuits with impressively fresh, pure and airy ripe red berry fruit and Nuits-style earth aromas that lead to detailed and equally pure, precise and energetic flavors that possess an abundance of underlying tension on the understated and very serious finish. This is a bit more overtly structured than the Gevrey and should require another year or two of cellar time."