Supreme Refreshment, Serious Complexity
- 2016 Boulay Sancerre: Clos de Beaujeu & Monts Damnés

Posted by Ian McFadden

Along with Vatan and the Cotat cousins, Boulay produces some of the most elegant, complex and long-lived Sancerre.

Out of all of them, it's Boulay's wines that I reach for most often and devote the most cellar space to.

Where Vatan and the Cotats are dense and layered Sancerres that demand bottle age, Boulay stands out for its drinkability, poise and finessed precision. We've tasted Boulay's wines several decades old, including a very impressive 1959. As dazzling as Boulay can be young, it stands the test of time in an impressive way.

The Cotats, Vatan and Boulay are all in the village of Chavignol. It's from here that some of the most exciting and profound expressions of Sauvignon Blanc are to be found. Chavignol is undoubtedly defined by its terroir. The soil is made up of the same Kimmeridgian marl as parts of Chablis, which imbues the wine with a Chablis-like chalky, energetic minerality.

Clos de Beaujeau and Monts Damnés are two of Chavignol's best sites. Clos de Beaujeu combines a slightly lavish and oily texture with a taut core of talc-like minerality. It comes off as saturating, poised and vividly stony. Monts Damnés - named ("damned hills") for its incredible steepness - is one of Sancerre’s top sites, known for its ability to render wines of striking precision and crystalline minerality.

The 2016 vintage is a fascinating vintage for Sancerre. The best examples combine a grand scale with a rigorous, mineral-laden architecture. Boulay's 2016s have a commanding presence of cool-toned fruits and tensile spines.

I strongly encourage you to pick up a sharply priced 6-pack. Boulay offers up lovely youthful drinking. Most importantly, the way that it transforms in the cellar makes it one of the best deals around.

To order, reply to or call the store at (212) 980-9463.

Ian McFadden

Director, Fine & Rare Wine
Crush Wine & Spirits