2004 F. Gaunoux Pommard 'Les Tavannes'
1er Cru Quality at a Bourgogne Rouge Price!
A Special Thanksgiving "Back Up The Truck!"
Admit it. With a week to go, you still haven't decided what to pour for Thanksgiving.
It's a difficult situation to navigate. You’d like something bold, a juicy red that will stand out and impress, yet also pair well with the Thanksgiving meal. You'd like something special without breaking the bank but you've got 10 people (more?) coming over and aunt Mildred, let's be honest, will drink anything.
For us, the hunt for the perfect Thanksgiving wine began in late August and it wasn't until early October that we found the bottle.
It's wines like this - wines with such great quality to price ratio - that make Managing Partner Robert Schagrin yell out with gusto: "BACK UP THE TRUCK!" We have secured only one parcel at this price and have included a shockingly low case price. With two holidays right around the corner, best to stock up when the moment presents itself. We will do our best to honor all reasonable orders.
The Gaunouxs (father Francois and daughter Claudine run the small estate) make a mean Meursault "Goutte d'Or", but Pommards are their calling card. As is with most of Rosenthal's Burgundy producers (think Fourrier, Barthod, Boillot, etc) the Gaunouxs release their wines late and the bottles most certainly benefit from such wise patience.
At 5 years post-vintage their Pommard "Les Tavannes" is coming into lovely form: Beautifully energetic and mouthwatering red fruit with an uncommon clarity, a dash of spice and a seamless acidity that gives the wine energy and form on the palate. It's wines like this that make me think Gaunoux is the ultimate under-the-radar producer for serious Burgundy drinkers, with wines that show authenticity and terroir, age well, yet are shockingly well priced.
Pommard, with its more muscular profile, is probably the perfect Burgundy for the Thanksgiving table - Gaunoux's Pommard will stand up to gravy, yet it is light enough for white meat or even fish. The ample and generous fruit even make it an ideal aperitif or after dinner glass - so have no fears pouring this before, during and after dinner.
It's worth stressing the incredible purity and generosity of the fruit in this 2004. I’ll admit that a few 2004 Burgundies have made me a bit leery of the vintage, but tasting the 2004 Gaunoux was a revelation in the brisk purity of fruit possible in this misunderstood vintage. In fact, we had a frank conversation with Neal Rosenthal about the complexities of the vintage and the problems that some 2004s show due to a combination of poor vineyard management and a sloppy use of chaptalization.
I was convinced that I had something special, but wanted to make sure, so I poured the wine blind for Crush Fine and Rare specialist Chris Cottrell. He confidently guessed the wine was "a slightly wound up 2000," thrown off, understandably, by the ripeness of fruit and the incredibly forward aromatics. When the truth was revealed, he was shocked, commenting that this is exactly what 2004 should be - elegant, with a firm structure...piquant acidity without a trace of greenness. Perfectly said.
In the world of fine wine, specifics are important: there are no great wines, only great bottles, and in every vintage each producer writes his or her own story. In a vintage that presents obstacles, often the smaller estates do better, having the ability to make quick decisions and lavish attention on their 1er Cru and Village berries instead of spending a ton of time with Grand Cru bottlings. Francoise and Claudine Gaunoux managed 2004 beautifully and we all get to reap the rewards of their efforts.
The family motto at chez Gaunoux is "plant quality, harvest loyalty." Loyalty is easy when the wines are this good. With Bourgogne Rouge from top producers creeping up to, and beyond, $50 a bottle, its refreshing to be able to offer a village-level Burgundy with all the wonderful site specificity of a 1er Cru at well under $40.
This is the moment - after tasting we took everything we could buy and the estate is sold out. With Thanksgiving T-minus 7 days and counting the wine will clearly rocket out of the store, so if you are interested in serving this beautiful Pinot Noir at your holiday table, email us firstname.lastname@example.org or call the store at (212) 980-9463 immediately.
We can get you this wine by next Wednesday (or sooner), but please order today!
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Gaunoux is in stock!