The Art of the Kabinett:
2022 Ludes "Monster" Kabinett

Posted by Joe Salamone

"Young Julian Ludes completely nailed the 2022 vintage and graced the world with some of the finest Kabinett wines to be found anywhere... This estate has been on fire since years now but 2022 tops everything, even by its incredible standards."

The above line, from the normally rather reserved authors of Mosel Fine Wines, contains one wildly fascinating detail (other than the singular and soaring praise): the note that "2022 tops everything."

photo of German vineyard

The greatest wine truism shines again: Follow the grower, not the vintage.

As the vintage 2022 begins to settle into our consciousness, for reasons very few people have truly been able to explain, there can be no doubt that a few estates may have equaled and/or surpassed 2021 with their 2022ers.

Yes, this fact makes the universal celebration of 2021 as the greatest vintage ever, not exactly true. We all know that easy truths are not really truths at all.

Today, the final two Kabinetts (of nine made in 2022!) have been released by the Ludes estate. Make no mistake, these are truly epic and cellar-worthy releases, the best-of-the-best.

Why is the "Monster" parcel the best? To this question the brilliant young winemaker Julian Ludes just shrugs and smiles: "I don't know... but the cellar doesn't lie. With time in a bottle, it is just like this."

Two Kabinetts, both from the Monster parcel, are on offer today. The regular Kabinett is mouthwateringly juicy, yet still racy and restrained; at only 44 grams residual sugar with a structure that reminds one of 2021.

The Kabinett Feinherb is even more restrained, more condensed yet also more linear and airy. Though it has just over 20 grams of residual sugar, it feels almost dry... which is the miracle, the genius.

The Ludes estate has quickly become one of the most celebrated Mosel estates. These are winemaker's wines, absolutely ruthless, unflinching, uncompromising.

Yes, these are wines for acid-heads, yet to reduce the experience to this one quality simplifies a much more complex story. As we've written before, there is something very unique here too, an "x-factor" that is undefinable - a vibrancy that feels raw, essential, and almost crackling with electricity.

While the name "Monster" refers to the size of the parcel (it is their largest holding at nearly one hectare), this is still a very limited bottle of wine. We recommend ordering sooner rather than later.

To order, email or call the store at (212) 980-9463.

Joe Salamone
Wine Buyer
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