2009 Drouhin Beaune
1er Cru Clos des Mouches Rouge
This is a Special Vineyard, a Special Drouhin
This is one of the greatest Clos des Mouches, ever.
Which is saying something.
Drouhin bottles many wines, from Musigny to simple Bourgogne, from Chablis through just about every village in the Côte d'Or and down to the Maconnais. Even for the Burgundy fanatic, it can be a lot of geography to try and digest.
At the same time, certain bottles are not to be missed and in the entire Drouhin stable, almost irrespective of price, the Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Mouches has to be given special due.
This is one of the first sites Joseph Drouhin bought in the 1920s and for the last 90+ years it has produced some of the finest reds from Beaune, Burgundies that challenge many wines at 2 and 3 times the price.
It is a special place, a special wine; like Fourrier's Clos St. Jacques, Lafarge's Clos des Chênes or Dujac's Combottes, it is a wine that transcends its "official" classification.
For 2009 Burgundies, you are not going to have a hard time finding great wines; the challenge will be finding value.
Today, we bring one of the outstanding bottles of the vintage and given the quality, the depth, the track record for endurance (the Burghound recently tasted the 1964 Mouches Rouges, giving it a rating equal to the 2009)... the wine is a steal.
In 2009, the natural volume and amplitude of the vintage marries perfectly to the jewel-box fruit quality that Drouhin somehow also manages to tease out, without losing any clarity, any sparkle. This is a deep wine, with the broad shoulders and meatiness that might remind you of Gevrey-Chambertin.
Yet at the same time it shows a more bold minerality, a fine-ness and detail that is simply extraordinary not only for Beaune, but for just about any 1er Crus in this vintage. This is a village that is known more for rustic, surly reds; the Clos des Mouches is not that. It is elegant, suave, finessed.
This is great, great wine.
And this is a young, young bottle with decades of potential ahead of it. Yet, and this is one of the key pleasures of 2009, the wines come to us full and gregarious and sensual, yet, many of them are packed and stacked and will be long-distance runners. The 09 Clos des Mouches is most certainly in this latter category.
Seriously - it is a terrifically pleasing wine now, though, as the Burghound suggests, do decant. This allows it to flesh out more and show its pretty awesome depth.
That said, if you can cellar some, please do. This is going to be an epic bottle with a decade of age.
If Drouhin's Clos des Mouches was at one time a collector's secret, we've seen demand in the last few years skyrocket for this bottle. With that in mind, we encourage you to order as quickly as you can. It has a reputation for greatness, yes... it also has a reputation for selling out quickly.
To order, please email us at firstname.lastname@example.org or call the store at (212) 980-9463.
Director, Fine & Rare Wine
Crush Wine & Spirits
Clos des Mouches Rouge