The Gang of One
2013 Debize Apinost
& 2011 Beaujolais Cambertiers
The first time that I tasted Debize's wines, I liked them and bought them on the spot (something I rarely do).
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With that said, it took me a couple of years to feel like I really "got" them. At this point, I've become deeply impressed by Debize's wines.
The wines have grown into somewhat of an obsession for me. They represent a compelling and exceptional take on Beaujolais. I keep returning to them and each time I find something new in the wines. They will make you look at Beaujolais with fresh eyes.
Like many, my conception of good Beaujolais was formed around Kermit Lynch's Gang of Four, with their cool, carbonic macerations and resulting soft textures, fresh fruitiness and super-gulpability.
Debize is 180 degrees removed from this style. Debize's are press (non-carbonic) wines that are darker fruited and structured with an exciting tannic edge.
Most importantly, these are beautiful wines. Nearly every time I recommend a Debize to someone, I get an email a few days later saying how much they liked it.
The 2013 Apinost comes from a single 900-liter foudre, clocks in at 11.5 percent alcohol, contains 3 percent Pinot Noir (co-fermented) and is grown on limestone. To say that it's a radically different expression of Beaujolais is an understatement. It's also a gorgeous one, with a piercing, dark minerality. It's supremely nimble, energetic, persistent and finely balanced.
Where Apinost is lithe and pointed, the 2011 Cambertiers is powerful and layered. It was impossible not to include both wines in the offer. They show how sensitive Debize's winemaking is; how well he captures the uniqueness of sites and vintages. Cambertiers has the reputation of being a distance runner - people talk about bottles with 20 years of age.
The 2011 Cambertiers is killer. It boasts a weave of dark fruits, minerals, herbs, and a harmonious, deeply structured architecture. It is intense, attention grabbing, but not at all showy. If you go for the 6-pack, definitely hold on to at least one bottle for the cellar.
I should close by saying that these are wines that I drink often and have put in my cellar with lots of anticipation. I feel like I haven't done an adequate job conveying just how special, how fascinating these wines are and how much I like them, but maybe this is all the endorsement they need.
To order, please email us at offers@crushwineco.com or call the store at (212) 980-9463.
Joe Salamone
Wine Buyer
Crush Wine & Spirits