The King of Fleurie: 2016 Métras Fleurie VV

Posted by Joe Salamone

There's something intangible and profound about Métras' wines.

Anytime that we taste through a wide range of Beaujolais, Métras jumps out. There's something extra that you can't fully put your finger on - a deep, textured complexity.

This goes a long way in explaining why Métras has assumed cult status. Few producers in Beaujolais are harder to track down. And if he's assumed a looming status in the U.S. it's because the wines are simply so compelling.

Métras was imported to the U.S. for a very brief time, but he soon realized that he hated all the paperwork and for over a decade the wines were the stuff of legends to be hunted down and drunk in Paris. Today, a tiny amount finds its way into the country. Of course, once people drink them they become obsessed.

Above all, the wines possess a textural intrigue that makes them utterly captivating and unique. Their signature is a suave texture and the beautifully expressive mix of granite, flowers and dark fruits. Almost a decade ago, when we first introduced our customers to Métras' wines, many people mentioned that the textural element was reminiscent of the wines of the late and great Henri Jayer.

The Fleurie VV is the flagship bottling. For sure, there is no better summary of Métras' style. There's a soaring and totally gorgeous perfume and spine of dark crushed rocks. It's a wine that explodes from the glass with violets, purple fruits and jet-black minerality.

A good amount of credit has to be given to Métras' sites. The vines range from 70-100 years of age and they are located in Grille-Midi and La Madone, two top sites in prime, steep climats.

The 2016 Fleurie VV is Métras cast in luminous clarity. The vintage endowed the wine with dazzling bright floral notes and stunning precision. There's an emphatic mineral streak whose edge lends even more complexity and intrigue.

Métras represents some of the highest points that Beaujolais can reach. The 2016 Fleurie is a particularly vibrant and gulpable example. This is a Métras that you'll want to drink very often, which is a shame because there's not that much wine around in 2016. Please give us your ideal order and we'll try our best.

To order, reply to or call the store at (212) 980-9463.

Joe Salamone

Wine Buyer
Crush Wine & Spirits