On Tuesday, we featured the final vintage of Buntsandstein. Today, we return with the swan song vintage of their other Grand Cru, Muschelkalk.
As we said in the earlier email, this tiny estate changed the entire idiom of German Pinot Noir. In the early 2000s, the focus for most German Pinot Noir (Spätburgunder) was ripeness, not place. Enderle & Moll's was different - they released wildly delicate, both in color and flavor, Spätburgunders that focused on the place and the soil.
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To also repeat from Tuesday's email, 2023 was as good a vintage as one could hope to ride out into the sunset. This is simply a superb vintage for Spätburgunder.
The "Muschelkalk" is sourced from some of the oldest Pinot Noir vines in Baden (they were planted in the early 1950s). You can certainly taste the old-vine density. You also sense a cool limestone-influenced precision to the wine. It is layered, almost exotically perfumed, with crushed blackberry fruit, a sappy, resinous herbal component, and superb delineation.
I still remember tasting the Pinot Noirs of Enderle & Moll in the fall of 2009; they were nothing short of a revelation. Here were Pinots of incredible transparency, lithe structures, and ruthlessly soil-driven with grace and cut. The 2023 "Muschelkalk" captures all of this beautifully.
Before wrapping up, I should warn you that quantities are very limited. We suggest that you get your orders in early.
To order, email offers@crushwineco.com or call the store at (212) 980-9463.
Joe Salamone
Wine Buyer
Crush Wine & Spirits
