Yes, the Mosel is learning a new language. And that language is Pinot Noir.
In one way, it's an improbable fact that some of Germany's most compelling, most delicate Pinot Noirs are now coming from the Mosel.
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Improbable because this is the land of the most ethereal, most angelic Rieslings on earth. In a way, this is also why it's so very probable.
After all, Pinot Noir, or Spätburgunder, is just "red Riesling," as the growers like to say.
Max Kilburg made his name only a few years ago with Rieslings of extreme focus and finesse. Max studied with Julian Haart, and the wines showcased a similar touch.
Today, we offer for the first time ever, what is only Max's third vintage of Pinot Noir from the awesome, Grand Cru Ohligsberg.
This is a steep, slate-riddled site flaunting old Pinot Noir vines planted in the late-1980s by Max's father. As with most Mosel wines, this is a labor of love; everything must be done by hand.
The Ohligsberg is one of the great sites of the Mosel, boasting both a great exposition for sun, as well as a deep side-valley cut into the site, providing it with shade and the cool winds blowing down from the forest.
You can feel the tension.
The 2023 is easily Kilburg's most compelling Pinot Noir to date - dark-fruited, soil-driven, an ample mid-palate with definition, textural, yet with freshness and grip.
There is power here, but not weight.
Numerous luminaries, including Klaus Peter Keller, have called 2023 one of the greatest Pinot Noir vintages ever in Germany. This bottling is yet another data point supporting Keller's premise.
Kilburg only ever makes a few barrels of Pinot Noir. So while it may be one of the greats, it is not in great supply.
This might prove to be your only shot.
To order, email offers@crushwineco.com or call the store at (212) 980-9463.
Joe Salamone
Wine Buyer
Crush Wine & Spirits
