The Only Prüm Spätlese
2013 Prum Wehlener Sonnenuhr Spätlese Auction
J.J. Prüm produced a breathtaking collection of 2013s.
The only catch is that they produced no spätlesen besides these auction bottles.
The short story was that ripeness increased to a point where the Prüms didn't feel like the material represented the lower Prädikats well. Besides a single cask of Estate Kabinett released for the German market and this auction Spätlese, everything at Prüm is Auslese or above.
Auction bottles are special. Each September many of the Mosel’s greatest producers descend on Trier with their best wines in tow. The estates don’t pull any punches with their selections for the auction. The bottles represent some of the most magical wines in their cellars.
We've been amassing a small collection of auction bottles (it's difficult to amass much more since they are always in short supply). And of course, we've been tasting through. With each bottle, it's become increasingly clear just how special auction bottlings often are. Simply put, they're more complex, finer and purer.
I aggressively tracked down Prüm's Spätlese Auction. I had heard amazing things about it. Of course, this is on top of their long history of producing some of Germany's greatest wines. There is simply no other producer who has crafted more reliably great wines than the estate of J.J. Prüm. In my experience, the only producers who come close are Egon Müller and Willi Schaefer.
The 2013 Spätlese Auction seems poised to be a legend. I really like the way that David Rayer and Jean Fisch describe the 2013 vintage at Prüm: "These behave like a fresher and livelier version of 2007." By this they mean the 2013s at Prüm show an incredible, rare density for the vintage while boasting a laser beam of cutting acidity. It's impossible not to imagine the 2013 Auction aging into something epic.
There's not much left to say besides what is perhaps obvious to most of you. When a bottle of Prüm has the proper amount of age, it is one of the great experiences that wine has to offer.
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